Wiring Line Voltage

Why 110 VAC?

Here's an interesting table that I found, indicating the wire gauge (thickness) required in an extension core, depending on the current drawn.

amps	25'	50'	75'	100'	125'	150'	175'	200'
0-10.0	18 AWG	18 AWG	16 AWG	16 AWG	14 AWG	14 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG
10.1-13.0	16 AWG	16 AWG	14 AWG	14 AWG	14 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG
13.1-15	14 AWG	14 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG
15-18	14 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG	12 AWG

Remember that the larger the AWG number, the thinner the wire, and the less current that it can bear. So if the chart suggests 16, and you don't have a 16 AWG extension cord, go down to 14 - a smaller number but a larger size.

Why is this important? Extension cords are made of copper wire, a good but imprefect conductor of electricity. The thinner the wire, the greater the resistance per foot, which causes the wire to heat up. The more current you draw through a cord, the more heat you get.

Extension cords used outside should be rated for outdoors use.

Extension cords should not be subject to mechanical stress, such as walking over them. It is a very bad idea to hide an extension cord under a rug unless it is protected by a cord runner.

This crank-reel is used for extension cord storage.

It's a good idea, and when it works properly, a couple of quick twists cleans up your cord mess. But sometimes the end that stays with the reel flaps around as you crank, running into the frame.

This is a plastic frame shaped like a stretched "H". You wind the cord around and around.

Here's the result of the good, old-fashioned way. You wind it around your forearm, take it off, and wrap the last few feet around the middle.

Some folks like to plug the ends together. I don't, in an attempt to reduce wear on the connectors.

When stringing extension cords in series, or plugging something into an extension cord, I like to knot them together. If you tug on the cord, it won't come unplugged.

Here is an assortment of current taps, some in the classical cubical shape.

The taps are available in three-prong and two-prong versions.

Many of the inexpensive extension cords end in a built-in cube tap.

This does not provide protection against electric shock. It helps protect against fires: if the unit malfunctions and draws more power than it should (perhaps heating up), the fuse or breaker will trip.

The easiest way to do this is use an in-line fuse holder.

GFI works by comparing the amount of power coming out of the wall outlet with the amount going back in. If the amount is not the same, it means that power is going someplace else, probably to ground through a person who is being electrocuted.

GFI equipment was once expensive, but has dropped in price due to increased demand after electrical codes started to mandate its use in bathrooms, kitchens, and patios.

It is highly recommended that all 110 VAC distribution systems in your haunt use GFI.

There are many ways to get the benefits of GFI protection:

• Plug your stuff into an outlet already protected by GFI.
• Use an extension cord that has GFI built into it.
• Make a power distribution box that contains an outlet with GFI built in.

This is a wall plug with GFI protection built into it.

This one was acquired surplus for a few dollars. It was probably intended for use in hair driers or other appliances where GFI protection is desirable, but might not be present in the wall outlet.

Use of GFI is not without drawbacks. Primarily, there is a balancing act: if the GFI sensor is not sensitive enough, it might not trigger fast enough to protect you from a dangerous short-circuit; if the GFI sensor is too sensitive, it may trigger when there is no danger, making an annoyance out of itself. Manufacturers prefer to err on the side of safety, so problems with GFI mechanisms usually involve false triggering. And it's a royal pain to suddenly lose your power during an event. "Somebody find the circuit breaker! Somebody check the GFI!"