The advantage of LEDs are:
LEDs come in a huge array of sizes, shapes, and colors.
This drawing, from the Photron catalog, shows the anatomy of a common LED
The part that actually makes the light is the "die", or "chip".
The "lead frame" holds the chip and extends out of the package to provide
electrical connection.
The whole thing is encapsulated in an epoxy plastic package that may be colored or shaped.
This is the schematic symbol for a LED.
Expect plenty of artistic variation, such as a triangle that it filled in
or hollow, differing number of arrows coming out of it,
and sometimes the greek letter Lambda alongside.
The "triangle" side is the "Anode". This connects to the positive side of your power supply.
The "flat" side is the "Cathode". This connects to the negative side of the power.
In summary:
| anode | cathode |
| hooks to + supply | hooks to - supply |
| longer lead wire | shorter lead wire |
| case stays round | flat spot on case |
Dimensioned drawing, from the Photron catalog, of the standard LED size called T1 3/4.
All dimensions are in mm.
Dimensioned drawing, from the Photron catalog, of the standard LED size called T1.
All dimensions are in mm.
Note that the drawings of T1 and T1 3/4 both show one wire longer than the others, and one side of the package with a flat spot on it. These are important indicators of device polarity. If you apply power backwards, the LED will not function, and can be destroyed.
When it comes to LED performance, "size doesn't matter". You might have a huge LED, the size of a gumdrop, and the chip inside is the same one that is normally built into a much smaller case. If you want something bright, get one that is specified as high brightness, or has a large MCD rating.
Three red LEDs, in sizes T1, T1 3/4, and 10mm.
Some common round LED sizes:
| name | slang | diameter |
| T1 | miniature | 3mm |
| T1 3/4 | standard | 5mm |
| jumbo | 8mm | |
| 10mm |
This strip contains "surface mount" LEDs, each the size of a grain of rice.
When a LED emits a "pure spectral color", the color can be objectively described in terms of the wavelength of the emitted light. This is usually specified in nanometers (nm).
LEDs emitting other colors, such as purples and pinks, are often described by their position on the CIE chromaticity diagram.
LEDs sold through electronic surplus outlets, a common source for hobbiests, may not be so precise. You might find them described as "red", "crimson", "orange", "yellow", "amber".
Light from LEDs tends to be monochromatic. Exceptions are (a) LASER LEDs, which are also coherent, and (b) LEDS that produce interesting colors via secondary emission from phosphors.
The color of the LED case sometimes has little to do with the color of light coming out of it.
These are all green LEDs. Even the yellow one. :-)
Cases described as "milky" or "diffuse" will spread the light around more.
The better sources rate their LEDs in millicandella (mcd), a measure of luminous intensity. A higher number is a brighter LED.
This radiation diagram shows the output of a blue LED
with a water-clear case
(Photron PL-BA31).
Most of the light is shooting straight out the front of the package.
This radiation diagram shows the output of a green LED
with a diffused colored case
(Photron PL-GB574G).
If you have the manufacturer's part number for a LED, you can probably look up information about the beam pattern - at the very least a viewing angle.
If you are buying LEDs surplus and the part number is unknown, just remember that a "milky" or "diffused" case will spread the beam more, affording a wider viewing angle, but at a reduced intensity.
The following table was compiled from the web sites of Hosfelt Electronics and Jameco Electronics, two companies that offer a wide range of LEDs at competetive prices. The information was collected 24 September 2004, and will certainly be out of date by the time that you read this. But it does a good job of pointing out the range of options.
I looked only for yellow LEDs. I tried to use only LEDs with lenses that are clear or transparent yellow. The prices are for just one LED, but when purchased in quantities of 10. There may well be errors: Hosfelt provided less technical information, but Jameco provided details that sometimes conflicted with the basic description of the part.
vendor
| part | number price
| brightness
| test | current voltage
| size
| lens color
| wavelength
| mcd/penny
| |
| Hosfelt | 25-342 | $3.49 | 23000mcd | 20mA | 1.9-2.5V | 10mm | water clear | 590nm | 66 |
| Hosfelt | 25-408 | $1.45 | 9500mcd | 20mA | 2-2.4V | 5mm | clear | 587nm | 66 |
| Hosfelt | 25-335 | $.75 | 8000mcd | 20mA | 2.1-2.5V | 5mm | colorless, transparent | ?nm | 107 |
| Jameco | 197641 | $.62 | 7800mcd | 20mA | 2.3V | oval | transparent yellow | 590nm | 126 |
| Jameco | 215597 | $.55 | 5000mcd | 20mA | 2.2V | 5mm | water clear | ?nm | 91 |
| Hosfelt | 25-357 | $.49 | 3600mcd | 20mA | 2.1-2.5V | 5mm | water clear | ?nm | 73 |
| Jameco | 197675 | $.36 | 2800mcd | 20mA | 2.8V | 5mm | water clear | 592nm | 78 |
| Hosfelt | 25-337 | $.45 | 2000mcd | 20mA | 2.1-2.5V | 5mm | water clear | ?nm | 45 |
| Jameco | 152792 | $.24 | 1040mcd | 20mA | 2.1V | 5mm | ? | 593nm | 44 |
| Jameco | 206501 | $.19 | 700mcd | 20mA | 2.2V | 5mm | transparent yellow | 595nm | 37 |
| Hosfelt | 25-275 | $.12 | 550mcd | 30mA | 2V | 5mm | colorless | ?nm | 46 |
| Jameco | 206480 | $.14 | 450mcd | 20mA | 2.3V | 3mm | transparent yellow | 595nm | 32 |
| Jameco | 253796 | $.24 | 150mcd | 20mA | 2.2v | 5mm | ?clear | 585nm | 6 |
| Hosfelt | 25-414 | $.04 | 80mcd | 10mA | 2V | 3mm | yellow | ?nm | 20 |
| Hosfelt | 25-285 | $.10 | 80mcd | 30mA | 2V | 3mm | ?clear | ?nm | 8 |
| Jameco | 175695 | $.15 | 60mcd | 10mA | 2.1V | 5mm | water clear | 585nm | 4 |
| Hosfelt | 25-411 | $.05 | 50mcd | 20mA | 2.5V | 5mm | clear | ?nm | 10 |
| Hosfelt | 25-328 | $.06 | 40mcd | 10mA | 2.1V | 3mm | ? | 585nm | 7 |
| Jameco | 136493 | $.19 | 38mcd | 20mA | 2.3V | 5mm | water clear | 589nm | 2 |
To summarize, by just checking two vendors, I found 19 different kinds, with properties ranging:
The most common type has one red chip and one green chip. There are two common types of packaging: a three-lead package that allows independent access to the two LED chips, and a two-lead package that connects the two chips back-to back (to change color, reverse polarity).
This T1 3/4 package contains two LED chips.
This section of the All Electronics
catalog offers several different kinds of self-flashing LEDs [January 2004].
CAUTION: Because LASER light is coherent, it packs a punch far greater than its brightness might suggest. LASER light can be dangerous. Keep it away from eyes.
You can purchase LASER LEDs by themselves, but I don't recommend it.
You can't just hook them to a battery and
resistor
and have them work properly.
They require special driving circuitry.
LASER diodes are also available built up into "modules" that contain
the LASER LED, driving electronics, and lenses.
These are very convenient for the experimenter.
The simplest, cheapest, and easiest way to get LASER light is to take a cheap LASER pointer
and modify it to suit your purposes.
So you start with a LASER diode,
build it up into a module,
and then do something useful with it.
As of this writing, commonly available LASER diodes are confined to the red and infrared portion of the spectrum. Laboratory prototype blue LASER diodes exist, but have short lifetimes, or need to sit in liquid nitrogen. Green LASER diode assemblies exist, but they cheat: an infrared LASER diode is used to pump a frequency-doubling crystal.
We have a page dedicated to black light LEDs.
Also, see Don Klipstein's web site on black light LEDs.
The brightness of a LED can be increased in numerous ways:
The first light-emitting semiconductor was a yellow-glowing piece of Silicon Carbide invented by Henry Joseph Round in 1907. There was not enough light to be useful, and silicon carbide is hard to work with, so the invention was mostly forgotten.
The modern LEDs were based on Gallium Arsenide (GaAs) and emitted infra-red light. If memory serves me, the early lab models needed to sit in liquid nitrogen while operating. Getting them to operate with reasonable efficiency at room temperature was a big breakthrough, providing a commercial product useful in things like object sensors and remote controls.
Red LEDs came next, using Gallium Arsenide Phosphide (GaAsP on GaAs substrate). Eventually these led to the development of high efficiency red, red-orange, and orange LEDs by changing to a GaP substrate.
Mid 1970's brought Gallium Phosphide (GaP) diodes, providing greater efficiency, but a somewhat orangeish red light. Soon GaP diodes were putting out pale green, and dual chip GaP LEDs (red and green) were emitting yellow. Then they got to a pure green.
In the mid 1970s, yellow LEDs were made in Russia using Silicon Carbide. The rest of the world used Gallium Arsenide Phosphide (GaAsP on GaP substrate).
Mid 1980's saw the arrival of super high brightness (GaAlAsP) LEDs, first in red, then yellow.
In the early 1990's, ultrabright InGaAlP LEDs were made in orange-red, orange, yellow and green.
The first significant blue LEDs came in the early 1990's, using Silicon Carbide. This was a throwback to the earliest semiconductor light sources.
The mid 1990's brought ultrabright blue GaN LEDs, then Indium Gallium Nitride (InGaN) LEDs, producing high-intensity green and blue.
The bright blue LEDs were then made the basis of white LEDs by painting the LED chip with fluorescent phosphors. This same trick can produce virtually any visible color.
There are now LEDs that emit black light.
This chart, from the Photron catalog, shows the various LED materials and the colors and intensities
they can produce, circa 2001.
An important LED breakthrough of 1990s was the application of fluorescent phosphors to change the spectrum of light emitted by LEDs. In this process, blue and near-UV emitting LEDs are painted with a mix of phosphors that absorbs the incoming light and emits the desired mixture of wavelengths.
Sooner or later, you will run across an electronic parts vendor who offers "grab bag" kits of assorted LEDs or support parts (perhaps 100 LED's for $5 or 300 1/4W Resistors $2.50). Should you do it?
If you don't want to experiment, but are just building a project that is described by somebody else, avoid grab bags. Instead, buy exactly what you need. If you demand instant gratification, pop down to Radio Shack. If you want to save a couple bucks and time is not an issue, buy mail-order.
If you like to experiment, it is a good idea to build a "junk box" of parts that you can play with and rummage through. In the old days, hobbiests populated their junk boxes with components removed from old equipment. Nowadays, the grab bag is a good way to get started. You will probably get an assortment of different shapes, colors, and sizes. Some of them you might never use, but at least you will have an assortment of different things to play with. And if you burn up a LED in your experiments, no worries - they only cost a few pennies apiece.
The current is set to VBE/R1,
where VBE of a 2N4403 transistor is a minimum of .75 V and a maximim of .95 V.
Depending on exactly which transistor you use, a little fiddling with R1 can be set to any convenient current.
[David threw one of these together with junk box parts and it delivers 17 mA, which is close enough.]
As of 2000, it appears that ordinary LEDs (not LASER) that lack optical gain (no lens) are quite a bit brighter, but still safe. As the trend towards more efficient and powerful LEDs continues, danger will increase.
LASER LEDs are a different story, and should be treated with all the cautions suitable for LASERs.
International Commission on Non-Ionizing Radiation Protection:
Here are several sources, in no particular order:
If you require a larger quantity and are willing to wait for them, ordering over the web or e-mail will save you money and probably provide a larger selection.
Here are a few consumer products that conspicuously use LEDs...
This is a string of 20 red LED
Christmas
lights,
operated on two "C" cells.
The LEDs are embedded in small translucent red balls that also act as effective diffusers. The effect is nice: they look a bit like berries.
$4.95 at
Target
(4 December 2002).
This is a string of red, yellow, and orange LED lights, intended for Halloween use,
powered from 110 VAC.
The LEDs are embedded in small transparent colored balls. The balls act more like lenses than diffusers: the viewing angle is good, but you can distinctly see a little bright light inside an outer sphere.
Target
wanted $9.99 (October 2002), but I got them on sale for about half that, day after Halloween.
Thank you for visiting. Your comments are welcome.
. . .
. . .