The Haunt Air Manager is a standard component used for pneumatic effects in our haunt. In one package, it provides electrical triggering, pressure regulation, exhaust regulation, and air storage.
But there is one additional problem. Let's consider a little thought experiment...
Think of a toy balloon as your air-activated prop. Just imagine the balloon painted with a monster face, and inflating it causes the monster to suddenly appear in front of the trick-or-treaters.
You connect the balloon to a compressor and a valve that can be used to send air into the balloon on command. Kids come up the walkway; you open the valve; air flows into the balloon, making it expand; kids run away in terror.
Now what?
I mean, now, how do you prepare for the next batch of kids? You have to let the air out of the balloon. This allows the balloon to deflate, resetting the scare for the next batch of kids.
But we didn't plan for that! All we have is a way to get air into the balloon. If we open the valve again, even more air will go into the balloon. We need a way to exhaust the air. There are numerous ways to do this. We will use Three-Way Valve Method.
This is the simple version of the Haunt Air Manager unit.
It features:
It's really quite simple.
Here's a list of parts for the little slice of HAM. Prices and part numbers are from my local Harbor Freight Tools, circa September 2001.
| quantity | part | part number | unit price |
| 1 | 1/4" brass industrial-style quick-connect male | ||
| 1 | 1/4" brass industrial-style quick-connect female | ||
| 1 | 3-way solenoid valve, with 1/4" NPT ports | ||
| 1 | diaphragm pressure regulator, with 1/4" NPT ports | #32872 | $9.99 |
| 1 | flow regulator, 1/4" NPT | #32905 | $2.99 |
| 1 | AC line cord set | ||
| 1 | fuse holder, inline | ||
| 1 | fuse | ||
| ~2 | 1/4" connectors (close nipples) |
This is the upscale Haunt Air Manager unit.
It features:
Here's a list of parts for the Green Eggs and HAM. Prices and part numbers are from my local Harbor Freight Tools, circa September 2001.
| quantity | part | part number | unit price |
| 1 | 1/4" brass industrial-style quick-connect male | ||
| 1 | 1/4" brass industrial-style quick-connect female | ||
| 1 | 3-way solenoid valve, with 1/4" NPT ports | ||
| 1 | diaphragm pressure regulator, with 1/4" NPT ports | #32872 | $9.99 |
| 1 | flow regulator, 1/4" NPT | #32905 | $2.99 |
| 1 | AC line cord set | ||
| 1 | fuse holder, inline | ||
| 1 | fuse | ||
| ~3 | 1/4" connectors (close nipples) | ||
| 1 | converted propane tank (cleaned, drilled, and tapped) | ||
| 1 | tee, 1/4" NPT | ||
| 1 | pipe nipple, 1/4" NPT | ||
| 1 | street elbow, 1/4" NPT |
[This particular sample used, instead of a street elbow, a regular elbow and yet another connector. Use what you have, can scrounge, or buy for cheap.]
With a full order of HAM, you get Green Egg, the air storage tank made from a recycled propane tank.
The compressor makes all the pressurized air that we need, but might be tempted to run its motor all night long.
In order to keep the motor from running, we provide air storage tanks.
The motor runs only until the storage tanks are filled, then shuts off until the storage tanks run low again.
Larger compressors have storage tanks of their own,
and you can easily add more air storage with additional external tanks.
We have elected to give each air-powered haunt effect a little air storage of its own; as you add props, you add air storage to operate them.
Construction is simple: get empty propane tank; make sure it's empty; unscrew and remove the two valves;
wash out with soap and water;
drill and tap for 1/4-inch NPT; clean; paint; replace the pressure-relief valve.
(detailed instructions)
We like to give our components a common, standard connection.
This allows us to move them around as required and replace tired units with spares.
The snap-on air connectors are a key to this.
Our compressor and all of our hoses and manifolds use these same quick connectors.
Any time we want, we can add 50 feet of hose, a manifold, or another HAM - just by snapping it into place.
Note - This comes at a slight cost in system operational efficiency,
because hard connections leak a bit less than the quick connectors.
Each HAM has an electrically-controlled (solenoid) valve. It permits us to remotely cause air to flow from the storage tank to the prop.
When we turn the valve back off, the air in the prop is expelled through the exhaust port.
Solenoid valves come in all brands, sizes, and ratings. This one is an ASCO Red Hat model.
The complete HAM unit shown at the top of this page uses a Mac valve.
Then, just put it all together with Teflon plumbing tape.
But these are two-way valves, with no provisions for the exhaust that allows your prop to reset. You will have to install a bleeder valve, and live with the wasted air that results.
I don't know of any commonly scrapped consumer item that will yield three-way valves for free. Your choices are to buy them new, or find used ones from dealers in surplus stuff.
One good point is that you need not be constrained by any particular make and model number. Good, usable valves from a variety of manufacturers pop up surplus all the time. Just make sure they:
We like 1/4" NPT, but you might like something else.
We like 110 VAC because it is easily driven by X-10.
If the solenoid valve is connected straight to the compressor, read the compressor documentation and make sure that the valve is rated for at least the maximum pressure that the compressor puts out. If you have a pressure regulator between the compressor and the valve, make sure you never turn the pressure up past what the valve can take.
This is seldom a problem unless you have a prop that needs a lot of air, fast. 1/8" seems adequate for most applications.
Here are some valves that we have used:
MAC 113B-111BAAA
ASCO "Red-Hat" EF8003G1
(only rated for 50 PSI)
We have more info on solenoid valves, including information on different types, how they are used, and where to find them.
Thank you for visiting. Your comments are welcome.
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