This file is one of the Wolfstone archives of the Halloween mailing lists. You can find out more, and reach the entire collection here: http://www.pobox.com/~wolfstone/_r/HalloweenArchive.html This particular archive deals with "wiring" topics. This includes: o 110VAC It does NOT include related topics: o high voltage First few are missing headers ... sorry! - - - - - Most 2-wire extension cords, like you specified, have banding or some other means to determine which of the two conductors is "hot" and which is "neutral". When you look at either the plug or the socket of the extension, the "hot" side is the smaller spade of the two. Make sure that after you cut, then reconnect it with the motion detector, that you keep the same conductors connected. Otherwise, something as innocent as a regular lamp socket, like a clip-on light, can expose someone to full wall voltage! Shocking, but not the effect you were looking for. - - - - - 1) I recommend that haunters plug all electrical devices into receptacles that are protected by a GFI (ground fault interrupter). This would be for anti-shock safety. and 2) anything that is home wired by the haunter should be separately fused, usually via an in-line fuseholder & fuse. This would be a fire prevention step. - - - - - Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 10:42:14 -0800 (PST) From: Dave Bell Subject: Re: HALL: hey what's going on? (electrically speaking) On Thu, 11 Mar 1999, Chuck Rice wrote: > As to the color codes, there is not a lot of agreement, but in > household wiring (110V), > > The BLACK wire is the DEATH WIRE! > > Remember that! The black wire carries the voltage and the white wire is > the common (same voltage as the green ground wire, but kept separate). > IN THE USA! I'm not sure about Canada, and Europe definately is different... - - - - - Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 10:45:04 -0800 (PST) From: Dave Bell Subject: RE: HALL: hey what's going on? (electrically speaking) On Thu, 11 Mar 1999, Fields, Karl wrote: > Let's see, so if I short the white wire on my 220VAC to the green... :) > > > From: Chuck Rice [SMTP:Chuck at WildRice.com] > > Remember that! The black wire carries the voltage and the white wire is > > the common (same voltage as the green ground wire, but kept separate). > > > > But never trust this. always check because there are many cased of > > miswiring. It could be that whoever wired your wall wart used this > > color code. -Chuck- Actually, Karl, *nothing exciting* should happen! The White wire in a properly wired 220 VAC circuit (like a range or dryer hookup) is still Neutral. The Line wires are normally Black and Red. For 3-phase, usually Black, Red, and Blue, with White *still* Neutral and Green, Earth. IN THE USA! - - - - - From: "Fields, Karl" Subject: RE: HALL: hey what's going on? (electrically speaking) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:45:09 -0500 Another great test is to cut the wires with a pair of wire cutters. If you guessed wrong, you end up with a nice "notch" in the cutters. Great for stipping other wires. Yes I do have several pairs like this! Karl > -----Original Message----- > From: Chuck Rice [SMTP:Chuck at WildRice.com] > > Yea, I forgot to mention the 'High Octane' lines. Then there is the > red (switch) wire... Sometimes it is and sometimes it ain't. It is a > wonder that the weekend warriors (like me) survive. > > Always test before you touch and touch with the back of your hand first. > (If it is hot, your muscles will contract and pull your arm away) > Don't ask how I know this. Never been knocked out, but I have had a > few close calls! -Chuck- - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: color organ question- hot side? returns? HUH? From: "Carl Cowley" Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 08:26:29 -0700 The hot side is the side that can bite you! If you are hooking up sockets so that you can plug lights into your color organ, then the short side (slot) of the outlet connects to hot lead and the longer side (slot) of = the outlet connects to the return (or neutral). If you look closely at one of your wall outlets you'll notice that one of the slots for the plug is slightly longer than the other (unless your in an older house). The = longer slot should be neutral and the shorter slot should be hot. If you are wiring directly to a lamp socket, then the hot should go to the connection that comes in contact with the nipple of the light bulb and the return should connect to the terminal that comes in conact with the = threads of the bulb. - - - - - Well "dead" is not the professional term for it, but among haunters..it's descriptive enough. In a wall receptacle the large slot contact is "dead" (properly called the "Return") and the smaller slot contact is "live" or Hot. - - - - -