This file is one of the Wolfstone archives of the Halloween mailing lists. You can find out more, and reach the entire collection here: http://www.pobox.com/~wolfstone/_r/HalloweenArchive.html This particular archive deals with "plastic foam" topics. This includes: o "great stuff" expanding foam in a can o styrofoam o tools to cut and shape foamed plastic o glue to hold it together o other techniques for working foamed plastic o coatings to preserve, protect, and strengthen plastic foams - - - - - From: glenn@zuni.chaco.com (Glenn Crocker) Subject: Re: styrofoam carving Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 18:25:04 -0700 (PDT) >What would be the best way to carve styrofoam into intricate shapes? I >am trying to make fleur d'leas for the tops of our fake iron >fence. I have styrofoam that is up to 3" thick. Thanks to all in >advance. :-) I've been printing out templates with my computer, then using an X-acto knife to carve into the styrofoam. This gives very precise results for things that are angular, but curves are tricky. I did a skull, and doing things like the cheeks, where you want a smooth, bowl-like indentation, was tough. I also use a 2.5"-long X-acto blade for cutting the styrofoam lengthwise, etc. (Including cutting a 4'x8' sheet up into little pieces. It takes some patience, but gives good results cheaper than a nichrome wire.) I'm also using "liquid nails" to attach the styrofoam, etc. Any suggestions on drilling holes in styrofoam? I'm using dowels to attach some large sheets of styrofoam, but drilling the holes is tough, since the styrofoam tends to crumble a lot. (Part of the problem is that I'm using a masonry bit instead of a regular one.) - - - - - Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 06:18:43 EDT From: Bill Lewis Subject: Re: styrofoam carving At 07:59 PM 10/1/96 -0600, you wrote: >What would be the best way to carve styrofoam into intricate shapes? I >am trying to make fleur d'leas for the tops of our fake iron >fence. I have styrofoam that is up to 3" thick. Thanks to all in >advance. :-) I use an electric (GE) carving knife. I bought it at a yard sale. - - - - - Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 19:44:27 -0500 From: Ricky & Karen Dick Subject: Re: HALL: Gravestone help "Sculpt a coat " will toughen them up for you. Most major theater supply stores carry it. You can either leave it clear, or mix it with some paint. It will add a latex like skin, as well as helping to make it more weather tight. Gravely At 07:27 PM 3/7/99 EST, you wrote: > Is there anything I can put on my white foam gravestones that will make them >stronger? I need something I can "paint" on to them so they're less apt to >getting huge dings in them if there tapped by something. - - - - - From: MDANDCD at aol.com Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 20:31:06 EST Subject: Re: HALL: Gravestone help We now use Rosco Foam Coat with success, available through theatrical supply outlets. But in a pinch, we've even used ordinary white household glue! It takes paint well and is waterproof when fully cured, but on the down side, it takes several coats to get much strength, with dry time between coats. - - - - - Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 17:57:11 -0800 From: Steve Chavez Subject: Re: HALL: Gravestone help You could always try liquid fibreglass. I used that to reinforce some styrofoam when making modifying a motorcycle helmet to look like a Power Rangers style helmet for a local entertainment company. It wasn't rock hard, but it did allow for contact to be made without damage. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: I REALLY NEED HELP BADLY!!! From: Crow979797 at aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:31:25 EDT try going to a fabric and/or craft store and pick up a tool called "The Wonder Cutter" by FloraCraft. Essentially it is a tube (to hold 2 d-cell batteries) a = metal frame (shaped like a U) and a thin wire. the batteries heat the thin wire = to the point that it will slice right through the styrofoam like it was = butter and you can get very creative with your designs this way. The only = drawback is that you can only cut in about 4 inches or so due to the construction design of this thing. But its great for detailing the edges. BTW it should = only cost you about $8-$10 For gravestone design ideas look around on the web( i would suggest the monster list) or even take a trip to an old cemetary near you. - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - styrofoam From: "Tyler Henthorne" Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:10:26 -0700 Another cool thing you can do to styrofoam is coat it in roofing compound (like Snow Coat brand - white in color) this soaks into the beads of the foam and gives it an elastic durable outter coating - use 2-3 light coats ..... we used this on a couple of "Gods form Easter Island" and the = coating not only prevented ants from using the foam as nesting (common problem = with beaded foam) but the "little devils" (children from hell) could not tear = or break the foam off .... also, if you use a sand based pond coating, it = will give your column texture and color! - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - styrofoam From: "Tyler Henthorne" Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:11:33 -0700 Roofing Compound is found in the roofing repair section of your local hardware/improvement center.....it is a coating used to seal roofs or make roofs more reflective to sunlight to improve their energy efficiency.... it is expensive....but the long run cost pays for itself (usually $25+ per gallon) Snow Coat - white in color when dried it is used as a reflective coating = to reflect light/heat to protect motor home roofs primarily their is a black version...but the brand escapes me..... do not use liquid asphault or similar material....what you need is the = water based coating/protectant.......it dries to a hard rubber like material - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - styrofoam From: "Tyler Henthorne" Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 15:35:41 -0700 I have some more specifics on what we use: Snow Roof Brand - Elastic & Reflective Roof Coating ..... UPC 16904 10001 Heavy duty , thick, cool white, elastic roof coating - Reflects like snow the black version is made by the same company....... it comes in gallon and 5 gallon buckets you can: use it to apply to sheets and use as a paper mache' for a hard rubber coating (like on our space ship) or we also use it to paint on the styrofoam to fill and seal - we use 4 coats minimum - 2 is okay as well - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: HOT WIRE FOAM CUTTERS(Walmart) From: "Webgoblin of Goblinville" Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 01:42:54 -0700 The one I have is "The Wonder Cutter" manufacturer by FloraCraft in LUdington, MI 49431. There's no SKU or catalog number on it or the = package, but it has a bar code of 46501-00601. I got mine at Michael's Arts & = Crafts which I think is a nationwide chain. It cost $6.99 here in the Seattle area. - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - A hard shell for props - 2 From: "Malcolm Little" Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 08:27:28 -0400 Actually, this link may get you there faster... http://www.foamnetwork.com/demandproducts/cart/entertainment.html -Malcolm -----Original Message----- From: Malcolm Little [mailto:mlittle at mlittle.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 7:59 AM To: 'HOWL2000 Mailing List' Subject: RE: Howl - A hard shell for props I haven't seen the tape, and aren't sure about what kind of finish you want, but some commercial foam coatings can be seen here... http://www.foamnetwork.com/demandproducts/cart/indexsealants.html - - - - - I also wanted to mention that I ordered a Wonder Cutter ($8.99) and two three-packs of replacement blades ($1.09 each) from Dick Blick, http://www.dickblick.com/zz608/02/products.asp?param=3D0&ig_id=3D2434= I received this order yesterday without incident. Again, the dreaded $5.9= 5 shipping and handling charge. In this case, I had checked a few local fab= ric stores and Walmart and had never found a Wonder Cutter. - - - - - Subject: RE: Howl - Questions about Blue vs. Pink Foam From: "Malcolm Little" Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 18:25:41 -0500 If I'm not mistaken, the largest difference is that the blue foam is made by DOW, and the infamuous pink foam is made by Owens-Corning. The two are equivalent, both being EPS (extruded polystyrene) instead of real 'styrofoam', which is the white 'bead' stuff. Seems that some areas tend to get one or the other. Around Orlando it's blue. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Re: Foam Cutter for tombstone From: "Debbie Anello" Date:ÊÊ Thu, 3 May 2001 09:01:10 -0400 Here is a link to a Wonder cutter for 6.99 http://catalog.craftsetc.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=3D375581 - - - - - Subject: Tombstone frustration & Wonder Cutter From: "Webgoblin of Goblinville" Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 12:20:42 -0700 Michael's Arts & Crafts carry them in the floral department - where they have the foam bases for arrangements.Ê They're about $5.95 and work great. Their website is http://www.michaels.com but they don't carry them online. If you can't find them anywhere near you and you're willing to pay for the cutter, tax (I don't have a resale permit for this sort of thing) and mailing, I'd be willing to grab some next time I'm down there for the list members who can't find them. - - - - - Subject: Re: Foam Glue (was Re: Hall: Re: how to page for tombstones) From: "Keeba" Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:40:49 -0500 I use Liquid Nails, the smaller tubes of Craft Purpose. I tried the larger tubes of Industrial Strngeth, but not catching the part about "put = together, separate, put together again" (i.e. let it get tacky)--half of a Monster = Mud Cavern came down on me last Halloween. I've stuck to Craft Purpose ever since, LOL IT also stays pretty well in the tubes, doesnt dry out so quickly. I've got one tube since last Halloween. Also, as I mentioned at Ironstock--I work under the Theory of the Painted Shut Window. If you'eve ever tried to open a window that has been painted shut, you get an idea how strong paint can be. I've got a few tombstones that I've hot glued/Elmers glued things on. Normally after a certain = amount of time outside, they'd fall apart--or you'd expect they would. However--Painted Shut Window Theory, again. Speaking of tombstones, Ironman just sent me a buncha pictures from a = local cemetary and Spirit Kanaka has promised me some from Boston--so I'm gonna = be making more templates, if anyone's interested. Woohoo! - - - - - Subject: Spray Foam Question From: "Sue McDonald" Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 06:49:33 -0700 Was working on the spider woman yesterday, I am not liking this project. I bring up 10 cans of foam spray and guess what? I am going to have to go to the store to get more spray foam. Out of the 10 cans, I got three of them to work. My husband (the testosterone was in full bloom) exploded one can all over the wall, floor, counter and cordless drill chargers in the shop. He was determined to figure out what the problem was. After the 'kaboom', I turned around to see him with one hand over the top of the can and the other hand was quite full of foam. The only cans of foam that I seem to be able to get that work and are what they say they are on the can (triple expanding) are the great stuff cans. Has anyone had this failure to expel foam from the cans they got? What did you do? Previously, I was taking the cans back to the store but I got these last year so that is not an option. (kind of hard to do when the store went out of business and they quit carrying that brand back when I returned more than I purchased at a time) When I took the other cans back? Fred Meyer department store turned around and put them back out on the shelves. Of course, I had to make a statement. I took the cans to the check out counter and asked them to make sure that the cans worked. The manager was embarassed when he could not get them to work. I told him that I thought it was pretty chicken chit to try to screw someone else instead of sending back to the manufacturer. - - - - - Subject: Re: Spray Foam Question From: "Rick R Mortiz" Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:51:46 -0700 Wow never had they problem before Sue. My cans always have worked. I will now post my one yearly warning on Foam.. If you fill a mask with the stuff let it cure for at least 3 days before messing with the mask. I learned the hard way. Last year I filled an old Tor Johnson mask with Greatstuff. I was making a prop head for our haunt. I let it cure for 24 hours then attempted to fill the rest of the space by packing in an old sheet. The core had not = hardened yet as i quickly found out. WARNING! this stuff is full of gas and under high pressure. Luckily i had goggles on as the foam exploded. I was = covered from the chest up in greatstuff and it had sprayed a fine mist of it all over the set i was in. Nothing like using diluted paint thinner on the = face to get that stuff off. If your not sure if its cured.. dont touch it. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Spray Foam Question-OT From: "Dreama" Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 23:18:22 -0400 I had the same problem of getting bad foam that I purchased this year. 2 cans that wouldn't work right, that I purchased from 84 lumber about 2 = weeks ago. Did you know that it has an expiration date?/ I did not. They told me it was my fault when I called them even though I still have a reciept showing that I purchased it from their shelves already expired. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Re: MM VS. PM VS. GREAT STUFF From: "Damien Stafford" Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 15:36:04 -0700 (PDT) As far as the latex based great stuff I'd have to disagree with this issue . I tried to use this last year to create an alien egg and after 3 days of letting this stuff cure it was all dry but very fluffy to the touch and easily flaked off and fell apart. I think it would be good to fill cracks but as far as I am concerned it sucks for making props! - - - - - Subject: Re: Re: Re: MM VS. PM VS. GREAT STUFF From: Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 21:20:40 Hi Rick: > latex based?? tell me more.. never heard of it. Check out: http://www.itsgreatstuff.com/gsltx.html This is the page at the Great Stuff website that discusses the acrylic latex foam. I've never used it myself -- I've never used ANY Great Stuff, for that matter -- so my comments are based solely upon their marketing propaganda. - - - - - Subject: Re: Re: MM VS. PM VS. GREAT STUFF From: Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 21:43:03 Hi Andrea: > Also note that it take forever and a day for the great stuff to > cure, so make sure you leave plenty of time for this in your plans. From what I read on the Great Stuff website, for the standard foam to cure, it needs to have some access to air. That's why, for example, you should NEVER use Great Stuff to fill a sealed mold -- the stuff won't cure, and you'll be issuing forth a great deal of explitives (sp?). According to what others who have used Great Foam with much success have told me, work with it in thin layers, giving each layer a chance to cure. Yes, this will take some time, but you won't have to worry about whether or not the foam has cured or not. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Re: Re: MM VS. PM VS. GREAT STUFF From: "Maggie Bell" Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2001 18:28:01 -1000 Hi all . . . I am making a large spooky tree out of chicken wire and Great Stuff. I used the latex Great Stuff today and it went on fine . . . but when I returned it was a major melt down. More was on the floor than on my sculpture. The cans of regular 12 ounce Great Stuff were starting to bug = me as some would work and some wouldn't. I just got tired of taking them back to the store. (expiration date was ok) The good news is, I found another version, DAP makes a foam spray in 24 ounce for contractors that is = awesome and cheaper too. Found it at Builders Express. It seems to expand more = than great stuff and covers more area. After trying all three, DAP is my = choice. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Re: Re: MM VS. PM VS. GREAT STUFF From: "Damien Stafford" Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 13:13:54 -0700 (PDT) --- Upier wrote: > I tried the latex stuff on my skull lights last > year. It never > hardened! It dried soft (like couch cushion foam) > and flexible. I > keep threatening to rip it off and start over, but I > think I'll wait > for it to tear first. Might be great if you need a > flexible joint > though (hey, that's a pretty good idea!). It did > clean up easily with > water, but I just didn't get the firmness I expected > from "Great > Stuff". I had the same thing happen to me whaen I used it to make an alien egg from my home haunters manual form Terror Syndicate. It just doesnt cut it if you want a nice firm prop. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Drylock From: "WebMistress" Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 20:57:54 -0700 (PDT) It comes in 1 and 5 gallon cans .. in grey and white It cost me $19.95 for 1 gallon of grey I bought mine at Home Depot in the paint department. DryLock is suppose to used to seal basement walls. The grey has a = stone/cement texture. I used cheap paint brushes and painted it on. BE = IN A VERY VENTULATED AREA .. if you're not ... you will get high :) It = took 1 gallon to do Alice and I had a little left over for 7 small = tombstones. It does not each foam board. I got the idea from ZombieFred :) WebMistress --- Thee ScareCrow > wrote: >Does Drylock come in a spray can? >How much is it? >Where can I find it? - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - Filling masks with foam.... From: "WebMistress" Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:33:04 -0700 (PDT) I've put Great Stuff over a filled balloon ... but never IN the balloon. = How big was the mess? Webby --- "Goblin" > wrote: >If anyone can effectively fill a balloon with great stuff type foam I = would love to >know how you did it. We wont discuss what happened when I tried. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: wonder cutter From: "halloween13" Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 11:50:40 -0600 I got mine at Hobby Lobby. - - - - - Subject: Re: wonder cutter From: "Aileen Wedeking" Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 11:07:48 -0500 You can pick one up at Wal Mart and to get a pretty good one you can order from National Arts & Crafts. Here is there url: http://www.nationalartcraft.com/ Hope this helps ya out! :) Please check out my website: http://www.geocities.com/fairy_bluetopaz/ Please Check Out My Online Classes At: http://www.costumeclassroom.com My eBay Auctions: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=3Dbluetopa= z2& include=3D0&since=3D-1&sort=3D2&rows=3D25 My Own Free Auction Site For Crafters(No fees of any kind for selling or buying ): http://www2.gloreb.com/cgi-bin/auction.pl List Owner of CraftersExchange: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CraftersExchange?yguid=3D59159276 - - - - - Subject: Re: Re: wonder cutter From: "Aileen Wedeking" Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 12:41:19 -0500 Hi P. Fairy, Did you look where they keep the Styrofoam for crafts at Wal Mart??? The people you may have talk to may not know much about it but that doesn't = mean they don't have it! :) Take another look around. Now I highly recommend = the National Arts & Crafts one. It does a great job of cutting. Sometimes you = do better in other places as far as quality is concern. If in a pinch try = using a electric meat cutter. Bet you could find a cheap one at the local Goodwill. Put a little Vaseline on it and it will do a decent job too. = These are other places to find cutters as well: Rag Shops, Jo-Ann Stores Inc., Ames, and Hobby Lobby. Also look in the yellow pages for foam or Styrofoam and they may sell cutters too! Worth a try. Let me know how it goes for = ya! I am pretty good at knowing this stuff with my business. Aileen The Fairy Please check out my website: http://www.geocities.com/fairy_bluetopaz/ Please Check Out My Online Classes At: http://www.costumeclassroom.com My eBay Auctions: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=3Dbluetopa= z2& include=3D0&since=3D-1&sort=3D2&rows=3D25 My Own Free Auction Site For Crafters(No fees of any kind for selling or buying ): http://www2.gloreb.com/cgi-bin/auction.pl List Owner of CraftersExchange: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CraftersExchange?yguid=3D59159276 I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me 90% how I react to it. And so it is with you...we are in charge of our ATTITUDES Aileen :) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bradley" To: "Halloween List" Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 1:58 PM Subject: Hall: Re: wonder cutter > Our Walmart, of course, doesn't carry it. Didn't even know what I was > talking about.... I think I've been transported to the backwater = Twilight > Zone. > > Psychotic Fairy > > > > > You can pick one up at Wal Mart and to get a pretty good one you can order > > from National Arts & Crafts. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Re: Re: wonder cutter From: "Rowan" Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 16:28:59 -0400 Don't forget Michael's craft stores. That's where we picked ours up - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: wonder cutter From: Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 14:47:38 -0700 Psychotic Fairy, >Sorry for the venting, but I have been shopping all morning and am VERY >disappointed in this town. aaaarrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I refuse to drive around town looking for anything that I can find on the= Internet. I bought mine from, http://www.dickblick.com specifically, http://www.dickblick.com/zz608/02/products.asp?param=3D0&ig_id=3D2434= $8.99. I bought two or three packages of replacement wires at $1.09 a pac= kage (three wires per package). Of course, you get soaked for shipping, but it= still beats driving around town. - - - - - Subject: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 02:26:19 EDT Hey all, I recently took a trip to my local hobby shop, and to my surprise, they = had what was marketed in not so many words as a, Professional size wonder = cutter, for foam scenes for train models and the like. Before I only knew of the smaller ones that Michaels carries. I was wondering if anyone has the = larger one and can vouche for its performance. It runs for about $35.00. I also found a really nice foam glue and putty. Last time I did = headstones, it was a royal pain in the butt to find glue, putty and/or caulk that = didn't eat through the foam yet was strong as anything. I found some at my local hardware store but since then they stopped carrying it. So just a little heads up for anyone looking for the stuff...it was in the model train = scenic supplies at my hobby store. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: "Thanatoz" Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 02:06:27 -0700 (PDT) Michael's carries a really nice version of a foam cutter, its $22. As for glue, go to Home Depot and get the Liquid Nails for Foam. It works great. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: "patty a nuth" Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:07:35 -0400 They have them at x-mas time with dept 56 items - made by dept. 56.A store that has these year round would carry it such as thee X-mas Shop- never used one though On Fri, 10 Aug 2001 02:26:19 EDT Garousb at aol.com writes: > Hey all, > I recently took a trip to my local hobby shop, and to my surprise, > they had > what was marketed in not so many words as a, Professional size > wonder cutter, > for foam scenes for train models and the like. Before I only knew of > the > smaller ones that Michaels carries. I was wondering if anyone has > the larger > one and can vouche for its performance. It runs for about $35.00. > I also found a really nice foam glue and putty. Last time I did > headstones, > it was a royal pain in the butt to find glue, putty and/or caulk > that didn't > eat through the foam yet was strong as anything. I found some at my > local > hardware store but since then they stopped carrying it. So just a > little > heads up for anyone looking for the stuff...it was in the model > train scenic > supplies at my hobby store. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Great Stuff From: "Damien Stafford" Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:52:42 -0700 (PDT) any kmart ans walmart carries it too and it might be a bit cheaper there.~TVD~ --- ThruHeavensEyez at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 08/09/2001 11:54:05 PM Eastern > Daylight Time, > halloweengirl537 at juno.com writes: > > << where do you get it, again > Leslie > >> > > > Any hardware store ought to have it. Just ask. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Re: Re: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: "M. Little" Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 02:15:12 -0400 I've had a busy few days, and have yet to read some 270-ish posts, but I saw this one at the latest end of my inbox... I did some searching for foam cutters some time back, and model airpaners use foam for their planes and/or wings. Collectvely, they have made some impressive foam contour cutters. I have read that aircraft safety wire works better than nichrome wire. Safety wire is what they tie all the nuts and bolts together with, to keep them from loosening. If anyone tries this, let us know how it works out. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Re: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: "capdiamont" Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 09:33:15 -0700 > For the wonder cutters it needs to be aluminum wire. For some scientific > reason it heats even better than copper wire for this use. Probably because aluminum wire has more resistance(ohm) for the same size wire. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Re: Re: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: "Rob Withoff" Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 03:47:59 -0500 > For the wonder cutters it needs to be aluminum wire. For some scientific > reason it heats even better than copper wire for this use. I ended up making mine out of an old coping saw handle and a spool of nichrome wire I got from American Science and Surplus. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Re: RE: Re: Re: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:57:47 -0700 You should be able to find it in any gauge you want. It's also used in ceramics for stilt points and I used to see it up to as thick as a pencil lead at the supply store. An average ceramic store is probably not going to carry it, but the glaze & mold distributors and larger suppliers should carry it. A little background - When you glaze a ceramic piece, you can't sit it on the kiln shelf with glaze on the bottom or it fuses to the shelf. Instead, you have these things called stilts in a variety of shapes & sizes. They have pieces of nichrome sticking out every 1/8" to 1/4" that the piece sits on. When the piece has been fired, the stilts drop or pull off easily. You have to use nichrome wire because of the high temperature inside the kiln - almost any other metal will vaporize or at the very least, melt or soften and drop the piece onto the ceramic part of the stilt or the shelf itself. Mike the Webgoblin http://www.goblinville.com -----Original Message----- From: Halloween-L at WildRice.com [mailto:Halloween-L at WildRice.com] On Behalf Of ChilliTNG at aol.com Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 09:57 AM To: Halloween-L at WildRice.com Subject: Hall: Re: RE: Re: Re: Professional size Wonder Cutter Hi All: Many have suggested using nichrome wire as the wire in a Wonder Cutter-like device for cutting foam with heat. For those who have done this, how do you keep the nichrome in one piece? I remember using nichrome wire way, way back in the Dark Ages of my youth for igniting the engines for model rockets. The wire never survived more than one use, and sometimes several wires would be needed for a successful launch because they'd burn through before the engines would ignite. Is there a heavier gauge of nichrome wire that won't have this problem? - - - - - Subject: Pro size wonder cutter From: "Gene Beldean" Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:16:38 -0400 Jon, I have built a couple of large foam cutters. I needed them to cut 2 lb density EPS blocks(4'x4'x3') into canyon rocks for a well known tire manufacturer here in Akron, Ohio. What I did was buy soft temper Nickel Alloy wire(14 ga) and connected to a variable output transformer. A big one. 1.40 kVa load rating. It was about 200 bucks. I got everything from McMaster-Carr. You would need to buy it through your work, as they are only wholesale. I tried using a smaller transformer, but it just melted. With this transformer, I was able to make an eight foot long cutter. Worked like a charm. I know this is a little big for a home haunter,or at least a little too expensive. It seems to me if you scale everything down, you should be able to use a smaller wire dia. with a smaller transformer. Never tried it, though. - - - - - Subject: Styrofoam for Tombstones Question From: Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:51:06 EDT Hi All: In looking over the 4'x8' sheet of 2" thick blue insulation foam we = recently purchased, I noticed, much to my surprise, that it is pre-scored = lengthwise at 16" width and at 24" widths. I never noticed the lines when = purchasing the stuff. I'm rather put out that my 'stones will have faint = vertical lines through them. How have others dealt with this "feature" of = the foam sheets? Or did I happen, in my infinite ignorance, to purchase = the wrong kind of foam insulation? (In my feeble defense, it was the only = kind of 2" thick foam sheeting that Lowe's carried.) Should the surface be sanded? Should it be covered with a very thin = layer of Monster Mud (and, if so, before or after doing the lettering)? = Should I just hope that the paint will disguise the lines? - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Styrofoam for Tombstones Question From: Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:13:21 -0700 Interesting - I've never seen it scored before (I'm in Seattle). Is it scored on both sides or only scored on one side? If it's just one side, use that for the back. Myself, I think I'd just fill the line in with something before painting - white glue or silicon probably. Monster-mudding the whole surface - I'd be a little worried about the mud flaking or chipping off in time & getting knocked around a bit storing it. And then there's the "when life hands you lemons, make lemonade" theory - turn it into a crack or camouflage it as a water stain running top to bottom or as a design element. IE, if the line ends up running vertical 2" from the left side, carve a similar line on the right side. That'll give you a few ideas - and I'm sure the great minds on the list will come up with a load more. Mike the Webgoblin http://www.goblinville.com -----Original Message----- From: Halloween-L at WildRice.com [mailto:Halloween-L at WildRice.com] On Behalf Of ChilliTNG at aol.com Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 11:51 AM To: Halloween-L at WildRice.com Subject: Hall: Styrofoam for Tombstones Question Hi All: In looking over the 4'x8' sheet of 2" thick blue insulation foam we recently purchased, I noticed, much to my surprise, that it is pre-scored lengthwise at 16" width and at 24" widths. I never noticed the lines when purchasing the stuff. I'm rather put out that my 'stones will have faint vertical lines through them. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Re: RE: Re: Re: Professional size Wonder Cutter From: "Rob Withoff" Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 16:10:56 -0500 > Many have suggested using nichrome wire as the wire in a > Wonder Cutter-like device for cutting foam with heat. For those > who have done this, how do you keep the nichrome in one piece? I use a power supply, and adjust the voltage so that the wire just glows. It's easier to break if the voltage is too high. Also, don't put very much pressure on the wire. > Is there a heavier gauge of nichrome wire that won't have > this problem? Where can such wire be obtained? Or should I just > try to find an old toaster at a garage sale and gut it for the wire? Most hardware stores that I've seen have nichrome wire heater elements, = but they're designed for 120VAC. - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea From: "ghouliemom (Tess)" Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:43:52 -0500 O.k., now humor me, I'm a newbie! Here's something new I'm doing this = year, I love the look of the tombstones that have the words or crosses sticking outwards with the background carved out (I'm sure there is a better way to = explain that but I'm tired..) I'm to lazy to route out an entire = background, so I put my design on contact paper, stuck it on the tombstome, and = sprayed carburater cleaner all over it. I had the edges taped also to sort of = frame the whole thing. The end product is really cool, I wouldn't even have to paint it if I didn't want to because the cleaner turned the carved out = area a darker shade of gray. This is so cheap and easy I could turn our entire town into one huge cemetary! If anyone can improve on this idea please do so, as I said, I'm a newbie, but an eager one! :) - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Styrofoam for Tombstones Question From: "Upier" Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:48:32 -0700 (PDT) Are they that obvious? I use the pink stuff and yes the score lines are there but I have never had a problem with them and never noticed them once I was finished (Although it sometimes makes the epitats hard to carve) But I've always put a texture paint as a final coating (like Fleck Stone) so I'm covered. I've never seen the line after the finish coat. --- ChilliTNG at aol.com wrote: > Hi All: > > In looking over the 4'x8' sheet of 2" thick blue insulation foam > we recently purchased, I noticed, much to my surprise, that it is > pre-scored lengthwise at 16" width and at 24" widths. I never > noticed the lines when purchasing the stuff. I'm rather put out that > my 'stones will have faint vertical lines through them. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Styrofoam for Tombstones Question From: "patty a nuth" Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 18:01:12 -0400 I remember seeing these in mine too- can't notice them when they are all finished though. On Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:51:06 EDT ChilliTNG at aol.com writes: > Hi All: > > In looking over the 4'x8' sheet of 2" thick blue insulation foam > we recently purchased, I noticed, much to my surprise, that it is > pre-scored lengthwise at 16" width and at 24" widths. I never > noticed the lines when purchasing the stuff. I'm rather put out > that my 'stones will have faint vertical lines through them. - - - - - Subject: Re: Styrofoam for Tombstones Question From: "Keeba" Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:35:29 -0500 Hey Chilli! Of course, since we live within miles of each other, we probably get the same kind of foam, so yes, there are score lines on mine too. In my case, it's how I originally determined the size of my tombstones. For the taller thinner stones of mine (like we made at Ironstock), you want to cut that 4'x8' sheet of foam across those score lines, then use the lines to snap 3 tombstones out of it (2, if you want to make the wider, lower stones like Upier's). The foam I buy also seems to have a score line in the middle of one section, so three of my tall stones end up with a scoreline down the center anyway. I use those three pieces of foam to create tombstones that have ALOT of engraving, like the one I made for Celynn at Ironstock. The engraved area hides alot, and what does show can be filled in with Plastic Wood (from Bondex) if you don't think the paint will cover it. If you don't want to do that much engraving, Plastic Wood is wonderful. It comes like a "dough", you can smooth it on with your fingers to hide = little gaps and such. It dries to "like wood" in about an hour or so. Personally, = I dont like to depend on the FleckStone granite spray to hide that snap = line. It always LOOKS like its hidden, until you get it under light at night, = then suddenly there's a crater like line there. You can also sand the whole thing, you'll still see signs of the snap line but not as noticable - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea From: "Adam Gibbs" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:23:00 -0400 Sounds to me like a good way to go... As long as the lines are clean and you can sort of control the amount of depth that's being disintegrated, it looks as if that's the way to go for large relief areas. I just finished up 7 tombstones for a play I am currently in, and was experimenting with several large routing areas. I thought of using the same technique but was to chicken to try it. I was under a bit of a tight time fame and didn't want to get experimental. The tombstones had to look very real and also had to look recent (30 years old ). You seem to be doing pretty good for a newbie... keep up the great work. Jawbone. Once a turtle... Always a turtle... are you a turtle? ----- Original Message ----- From: ghouliemom (Tess) To: Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 12:43 AM Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea > O.k., now humor me, I'm a newbie! Here's something new I'm doing this year, > I love the look of the tombstones that have the words or crosses = sticking > outwards with the background carved out (I'm sure there is a better way = to > explain that but I'm tired..) I'm to lazy to route out an entire background, > so I put my design on contact paper, stuck it on the tombstome, and sprayed > carburater cleaner all over it. I had the edges taped also to sort of frame > the whole thing. The end product is really cool, I wouldn't even have to > paint it if I didn't want to because the cleaner turned the carved out area > a darker shade of gray. This is so cheap and easy I could turn our = entire > town into one huge cemetary! If anyone can improve on this idea please = do > so, as I said, I'm a newbie, but an eager one! :) - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea (Carburetor cleaner) From: Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 06:27:54 -0700 I've been using the template and carburetor cleaner idea for years in my mass produced tombstones. I made aluminum templates and replaced the regular stream spray head with a mist spray head from a spray paint can. (You have to do a little carving on the head's shaft for this to work) This gives better control. This allowed me to turn these things out by the hundreds. BTW, if you use a soldering iron or woodburning iron in creating your letters, build yourself a dimmer box with a dimmer switch and plug in socket for the iron. That way you can control the voltage and thereby the heat for better letters. Another tip: While the foam is still unpainted, if you wet the tombstone and then lightly spray with the carb cleaner, you get some great erosion effects. - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea From: "ghouliemom (Tess)" Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 08:46:47 -0500 Yes, most of the lines stay crisp, but the little bit that doesn't just looks like ageing, I haven't gotten around to painting them yet, but I = read another post here and it seems to paint o.k. I'm using the gray = polystyrene foam so any future chips or scratches don't stick out so bad. And I don't have a website, someday I would like to but my computor knowledge is somewhat limited. ;) ghouiemom >From: "Bradley" >Reply-To: "HOWL2000 Mailing List" >To: "HOWL2000 Mailing List" >Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea >Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:19:32 -0400 > >So, the cleaner ate the surrounding foam away, right? Did you use >polystyrene foam board or regular styrofoam? Were the edges pretty crisp = >or >did it eat away behind the contact paper? This sounds really = interesting. >Do you have any pictures? And did the paint go on all right after the >cleaner or did you have to do something to it? Thanks. :) - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea (Carburetor cleaner) From: "ghouliemom (Tess)" Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:02:30 -0500 Cool, but I think I will stick to contact paper, I'm not talanted enough = to try to cut aluminum. I use exacto knives when carving the letters, I can't = stand the smell from the dremel or soldiering iron, even with a mask! With = an exacto you can angle your cuts to make it look pretty real. How do you back your stones? I've tried a few methods but thats still needing improvement. I can't get the real thick foam anywhere around here, so I = have been using a strip of wood on the top and bottom with those half hose = clamp thingies. Not sure what their really called, I just swipe most of my supplies outa hubbies garage so don't need to know what their called. ;) ghouiemom >From: gravecreations at juno.com >Reply-To: "HOWL2000 Mailing List" >To: HOWL2000 at WildRice.com >Subject: Re: Howl - New Prop Idea (Carburetor cleaner) >Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 06:27:54 -0700 > >I've been using the template and carburetor cleaner idea for years in my >mass produced tombstones. I made aluminum templates and replaced the >regular stream spray head with a mist spray head from a spray paint can. >(You have to do a little carving on the head's shaft for this to work) >This gives better control. This allowed me to turn these things out by >the hundreds. BTW, if you use a soldering iron or woodburning iron in >creating your letters, build yourself a dimmer box with a dimmer switch >and plug in socket for the iron. That way you can control the voltage and >thereby the heat for better letters. - - - - -