This file is one of the Wolfstone archives of the Halloween mailing lists. You can
find out more, and reach the entire collection here:
  http://www.pobox.com/~wolfstone/_r/HalloweenArchive.html

This particular archive deals with "people detection" topics. This includes:
  o switch mats
  o motion detectors
  o passive IR

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Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 02:39:39 -0500
From: Leon Stankowski <boo at stankowski.com>
Subject: HALL: Sonar Sweeper (was Long: Caged Dragon Idea)

Sonar Sweeper Overview

The basic concept for the device is simple.  Build or purchase a
fairly focused sonar transducer.  Mount it on a stepper motor.Κ
Use a dedicated microcontroller to drive both the transducer and
stepper and time the echos.  The software in the microcontollers
has two basic modes; learn the space, report other objects
occupying the space.  High level control of the device and
reporting of object positions is done over a serial / network
connection.  The result is that all the props (and security
system) are able to watch the for object moving into an area
that interests them and react accordingly.

I have been considering making this toy available for sale and
hope to have my prototype/experiments complete in the next few
weeks.  Here's what's in the simpler one:

 ΚΚΚΚΚΚ Polaroids sonar transducer and driver
 ΚΚΚΚΚΚ cheap little stepper motor
 ΚΚΚΚΚΚ stepper motor driver
 ΚΚΚΚΚΚ Atmel AVR microcontroller
 ΚΚΚΚΚΚ serial coupling logic to communicate w/ a PC
 ΚΚΚΚΚΚ power supply stuff
 ΚΚΚΚΚΚ hardware to hold it all together

Parts are running me about $110 for the cheapest unit.

I'll let you know how the prototypes work out.

Leon Stankowski

"Fields, Karl" wrote:
>
> more! more! (please)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Leon Stankowski [SMTP:boo at stankowski.com]
> >
> > I am developing a sonar sweeper for my front yard.  It will allow
> > my Mark II scarecrow to look at and track the closest TOT, (as
> > well as trigger a number of other props, and do double duty as a
> > security system for late night).  You may want to consider doing

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From: Ekker at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:42:05 EST
Subject: Re: HALL: Sonar Sweeper (was Long: Caged Dragon Idea)

There are some kits already on the market. Mondotronics has one (
<http://www.robotstore.com>http://www.robotstore.com ). It does not appear to be as complete a package as
what you are proposing, but it does come with two polaroid transducers. It
sells for $149.

Ekker

In a message dated 11/19/98, 1:43:16 AM, halloween-l at netcom.com writes:
<<Sonar Sweeper Overview

The basic concept for the device is simple.  Build or purchase a
fairly focused sonar transducer.  Mount it on a stepper motor.Κ
Use a dedicated microcontroller to drive both the transducer and
stepper and time the echos.  The software in the microcontollers
has two basic modes; learn the space, report other objects
occupying the space.  High level control of the device and
reporting of object positions is done over a serial / network
connection.  The result is that all the props (and security
system) are able to watch the for object moving into an area
that interests them and react accordingly.

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Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 08:59:58 -0600
From: "Edwin Wise" <ewise at simreal.com>
Subject: Re: HALL: Sonar Sweeper (was Long: Caged Dragon Idea)

On 11/19/98, at 2:39 AM, Leon Stankowski wrote:

>Sonar Sweeper Overview

Sounds about right... I've been involved in projects that did sonar
sweeps, and there are a few physical limitations that may or may
not affect your life.

First, JameCo (www.jameco.com) sells (or sold) a sonar module that
returns the data all adjusted and formated over a serial line -- too
expensive, but works good and is small.  Also, you can buy sonar
"measuring tapes" at the hardware store that are hackable if you
don't have any other real life.

Sonar has about a 10 to 15 degree cone (at best), and can only report
the existance or abscence of obstacles within that cone... the farther
you look, the fuzzier the data... unless you get gain control, to make
it *less* sensitive, thereby rejecting trace hits at the edge of the cone.
Given the sonars I've used in the past, this cone tends to close-off all
small open areas (like doors) and makes them look solid, or at least
smaller than they are.

Also, hard flat surfaces at a tangent to the sonar will not reflect back,
but will instead reflect the beam... often giving strange false readings
"through" the wall.

Convex areas will also scatter the beam in horrid ways, giving many
false readings.  This goes for small convex areas like mouldings
around your door, and big ones like the dead-end in the hallway.

FInally, most sonar packages don't give you very many readings per
second... I think the JameCo one gives 10 per second... the hardware
store model gives about 2.  Using the Polaroid version, you may be
able to control that (I haven't used theirs), but if you start pinging too
fast, you can pick up echoes of previous pings... and get false readings.

If you take many readings close together, and do this
several times, you can get a statistical "feel" for the area... and changes
in it (like people) *will* show up and be obvious.

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Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:49:54 -0800
From: Chuck Rice <Chuck at WildRice.com>
Subject: Re: HALL: Sonar Sweeper (was Long: Caged Dragon Idea)

At 09:42 AM -0500 1998/11/19, Ekker at aol.com wrote:

> There are some kits already on the market. Mondotronics has one (
> <<http://www.robotstore.com/>http://www.robotstore.com/> ). It does not appear to be as complete a
> package as
> what you are proposing, but it does come with two polaroid transducers. It
> sells for $149.

You also might want to look at <<http://www.wirz.com/sonar/index.html>http://www.wirz.com/sonar/index.html>
They are $50 each there, but the package is not quite as glossy. -Chuck-

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From: Ekker at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:42:27 EST
Subject: Re: Re: HALL: Sonar Sweeper

I have done a lot of research into to robotics and automation, and I agree
with you.

I mentioned the kits in case you were not aware of them, and so that the list
could see what you were talking about.

If you can put your kits together for $110, you should be able to sell a more
complete package for a competitve price.

Listed below are some sites have information on the polaroid units. The first
two are about home built robots that use sonar ranging. The third covers a lot
of the issues the Edwin brought up about false readings, and seeing doorways.

<http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/jun98/sr04.htm>http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/jun98/sr04.htm
<http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/jul97/gensys.html>http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/jul97/gensys.html
<http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/may97/sonar2.html>http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/may97/sonar2.html

BTW, I would like to here more about your scarecrow, my talking scarecrows
were a big hit this year and I, am thinking of adding some animation to them.

Ekker

In a message dated 11/19/98, 11:02:17 AM, halloween-l at netcom.com writes:
<<Hi Ekker,

The polaroid stuff I was speaking of is the same units that come
in the kit you mention.  Unfortunately they really need to be driven
by a microcontroller (or custom written real-time code on a PC)
and still need stepper (or other movement) motor and drivers for
the same (as well as software to hold it all together and turn the
raw output into usable data).

Without the motor all you would get is a straight line echo time
measurement.

Please don't take all of this as a statement of not being able to
do it w/o my proposed toy.  I'm just trying to point out that the
Polariod units are barebones units and need augmenting to make
them useful for my proposed tasks.  Unfortunately the augmenting
is not completely trivial and involves both hardware and software
development.

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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 17:32:14 -0700 
From: Chuck Rice <Chuck at WildRice.com> 
Subject: Re: HALL: Re:Motion sensors "trip wires" 

At 06:19 PM -0400 1999/04/22, ROMEO79117 at aol.com wrote: 
>any model train store sells the small moition sensors with the circuits so 
>all you have to do is plug them in and set the timer its like 20 bucks a pair 

Or to build your own see: <<http://www.mrollins.com/irled.html>http://www.mrollins.com/irled.html> -Chuck- 

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Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 05:39:23 -0400 
From: Allen <Infidel@vol.com> 
Subject: Re: HALL: Cheap floor sensors (was: Motion sensors LONG) 

>1) get some flat pieces of soft foam (approx 12"x18" and about 1/2" thick). 
>2) cut holes in the foam about the size of a half-dollar all over it until 
>it looks like Swiss cheese. 
>3) glue a sheet of aluminum foil on the top and bottom of the foam.Κ [Each 
>foil sheet should be slightly smaller than the dimension of the foam]. 
>4) use duct tape to attach twisted pair wire to the foil -- one lead on top, 
>one on the bottom. [You can't solder to aluminum]. 

For a thinner design using poster board, take a look at my Mat Switch page: 

<http://vol.com/~infidel/halloween/mat_switch.html>http://vol.com/~infidel/halloween/mat_switch.html 

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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 00:05:06 -0700
From: Chuck Rice <Chuck at WildRice.com>
Subject: Re: HALL: PIR Load

At 11:43 PM -0500 1999/05/04, Scott & Nina Hopkins wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>A question for all you electronics folk out there. Spent the weekend fiddling
>around with a PIR sensor/electronics package designed to turn on existing
>ornamental lighting around the home. I'm doing the old relay for switch
>closure to timer thing, and was wondering if there was an electronic way to
>provide the sensor with a load, other than hooking up a light bulb. With just
>a relay in line, it's pretty inconsistent. Add a light bulb, and it settles
>right down. I don't want the bulb, however. Any ideas?

You have to have some resistor. You can try to find 30 watt resistor, but
the best ones are called light bulbs. I just used an appliance bulb and
painted it black.

See: <http://www.WildRice.com/Halloween/Construction/FogControl.html>

If you want it truly dark, you will have to give it several coats. And it
will get hot. -Chuck-

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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 11:26:19 -0400
From: Jim Kadel <jimk at rica.net>
Subject: Re: HALL: PIR Load

Jerry,


I have read on this List, was it Dave Bell?  who mentioned that "newer models" 

of motion detecting spotlights, don't require bulb loading to internally switch?

If so this would be a boon to those wanting to use the PIR spotlight for haunts.


I presume these are the inexpensive $10 to $18 models found everywhere?

Dave was it you?  Is this true?

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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 10:00:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Bell <dbell at TheBells.net>
Subject: Re: HALL: PIR Load

On Wed, 5 May 1999, Jim Kadel wrote:

> Jerry,
> 

> I have read on this List, was it Dave Bell?  who mentioned that "newer
> models" of motion detecting spotlights, don't require bulb loading to
> internally switch?

> If so this would be a boon to those wanting to use the PIR spotlight
> for haunts.

> I presume these are the inexpensive $10 to $18 models found
> everywhere?

> Dave was it you?  Is this true?

Yes, for all the ones I've tried to modify. They all seem to have relays
now, rather than SCRs for switching. Much nicer, and most are easy to
hack. Jerry and I worked on several, and I have modification notes up on
my Website:

http://www.TheBells.net/Halloween

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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 17:28:24 -0700
From: Chuck Rice <Chuck at WildRice.com>
Subject: Re: HALL: PIR Load

At 06:27 PM -0400 1999/05/05, Allen wrote:

> >I just used an appliance bulb and painted it black.
>>If you want it truly dark, you will have to give it several coats.
>Wouldn't it be easier to just cover it with aluminum foil?


I tried that first, and it works, but you cannot get the foil
down to the base of the light, or it touches the power and
becomes a shock hazard. Safety first. -Chuck-

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From: CLUSTRCAJJ at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 20:39:04 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: HALL: PIR Load

  Why don't you use black automotive engine enamel.  You can get it in a 
spray can which will make it easy to paint the bulb, and it is made to 
withstand very high temperatures, i.e. a car's engine, so you know it won't 
peel or crack off with the heat.  Should work well.  

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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 18:48:44 -0700
From: Aaron <jester at sunshine.net>
Subject: Re: HALL: Simple Motion Sensors~How-to

scooby-scooby-doo at juno.com wrote:
> 
> I don't know if anyone has done this yet!!
> 
> You know those Security Light Motion Scensors~ Could you use those to
> trigger an effect~

Dave Bell has some very good info on hacking the PIR at
http://www.thebells.net/Halloween/
I have used his demos to build small PIR detectors myself which can
switch any kind of load (within reason) I need to. And the finished
product can be tiny if you need it to. I have also built in one to
three 555 timers to control the events timing...

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Subject: Hall: Motion Detector - Detected
From: "Jerry Seiler" <jerry@earthsands.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 21:58:03 -0500

Here is a cheap motion detector unit, complete ready to use from MPJA
surplus. Thought some might be interested.

http://www.mpja.com/product.asp?product=3D11557+SC

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Subject: RE: Hall: PIR's
From: <wbn at wickedbeernut.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 17:27:52 -0700

Mark,

>I'm looking for a source for Passive Infrared Detectors (PIR).
>
>Anyone know where these can be had?

I just bought two from,

    http://web-tronics.com/

specifically,

    http://store.yahoo.com/webtronics/movdetas.html

Kit 76 - Movement Detector (Assembled), 11.95 each.

Here's a picture of the actual unit,

    http://www.qkits.com/serv/qkits/diy/pages/QK76.asp

I've successfully integrated the two PIRs with a stamp (it's trivial). Th=
e
stamp will turn the head of a 6.5' Monster Mud prop using a servo motor
in order to "follow" the TOTs as they walk by. Once the stamp no longer
detects movement, the prop will go to sleep.

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Subject: Re: Hall: PIR's
From: "Dave Hanoski" <hanoskid@sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 20:30:41 -0600

Check with your local home alarm company, I got a couple old ones for 5 =
bucks
each, they run on 12 volts. Or if you want 120v AC type, use yard security
lights,
which arn't much more.

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Subject: Re: Hall: PIR's
From: "Michael Baumann" <baumann@optivus.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 11:29:37 -0700 (PDT)

On Thu, 9 Aug 2001, Mark Dennison wrote:
Check out Marlin P Jones, inc. a surplus house. Depends on 
how much you're looking for, and how handy you are geeking together
parts.
They have for $25, one of:
8738-SC Volumetric 
8739-SC pet pattern
8740-SC curtain pattern
8741-SC Long Range.
All of thses require between 9-16VDC (12 typ) and have 
normally closed relay contacts, rated for 24V@50ma

All of these are in enclosures, etc - basically your typical
alarm system type PIR

Then there's the geek PIR for $10:
7860-KT - it's just a PIR module, takes 5-10V, has an active
          high output that produces a 1/2 second pulse. You'd
          interface that to some heavier switching device
          (say, a solid-state relay, or trigger a 555 for timing, etc)
		

website: http://www.mpja.com

Btw: anyone looking for the halloween.uber-geek.org pages - give me 
a little more time to fix. My ISP in it's infinite stupidity has
decided that blocking port 80 inbound will fix all their Code Red
worries - so I've got to move the pages to a different port.

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Subject: Re: Hall: PIR's
From: "WebMistress" <webmistress at halloween-l.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 08:42:29 -0700 (PDT)

OHHHH!!  Radio Shack has them.  $30  I have one actually, but you through =
out the technical name :)  Radio Shake has an alarm system that uses this, =
you can buy the door sensor by itself.

Webby

--- Mark Dennison <oktoplay at mindspring.com>
> wrote:
>Well I'm still learning but what from I understand - it senses motion in =
daylight or pure darkness and does not need heat or light as a source to =
detect/activate -simply motion.

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