This file is one of the Wolfstone archives of the Halloween mailing lists. You can find out more, and reach the entire collection here: http://www.pobox.com/~wolfstone/_r/HalloweenArchive.html This particular archive deals with "bodies and parts" topics. This includes: o bodies o parts - heads, arms, legs o skeletons It does NOT include related topics: o casting your own - - - - - Subject: corpse Craft From: "Aileen D Wedeking" Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:00:18 -0700 Materials 1 Cheap lab skeleton 2 Cans of 3M Repositionable Spray Glue 3 Rolls of paper towels, solid white 2 or 3 Bottles of Tacky glue 1 Can of "Good Stuff" Spray Foam A decent skull Brown gloss paint Paint brush I took a cheap plastic skeleton and a few rolls of paper towels and some = 3M repositionable 77 spray glue. Be sure to cover the floor with some paint cloth or something to keep the glue off. Start by filling in the joints between the bone with something to make it not look so much like a = skeleton. I used hot-glue. Then I flipped the skeleton over and took some small pieces of duck tape and put them across the back of the joints to make the corpse rigid. I used my staple gun to hold the tape on better. Turn him = back over. Now drive a few nails into his stomach area. Let them stick out so the = foam has something to hold onto when it dries. Fill his torso are with foam so = it is completely filled. After it has dried for one or two day, take a knife and carve the foam down to the desired look. Now you need to rip the straight edges off the paper towels and tear it into strips. Keep them a = reasonable size so they can be worked in all the ribs and fingers and around the = bones. Lay the strips down on the ground and spray glue on 1 side. Apply it to = the skeleton, pushing it into all the ups and downs and joints. When you have the skeleton completely covered it'll look kind of weird = but let it dry for a day or so. When you have allowed it to dry, pour two = bottle of tacky glue into a small bucket and add two bottles of water and some glossy brown paint until you get a color a little lighter than what you want.It dries darker than what is it wet. Paint this stuff onto the body and if you have the mixture wet enough it will go on easily and make some wrinkles as the paper shrivels up. Let it dry and then do the head. I replaced the skull that came with it with one that looked better. Do the head the same way and you're done! Project submitted by Kenny Shadow24 at cyberramp.net - - - - - Subject: rotting skeletal corpses From: "Aileen D Wedeking" Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:04:04 -0700 In this section, I'll teach you a relatively cheap and efficient way to create rotting skeletal corpses for your graveyard. Supplies A 5-Foot Plastic Skeleton (around $15 at Target or Walmart around = Halloween. Dingy Yellow Paint A Paintbrush Crepe Hair Elmer's=AE Glue Wax Paper Stage Blood The first thing you want to do is find just the right skeleton. There are several variations, and some are better for certain occasions than others. The one I would suggest is 5' tall and runs for about $15 at a Wal Mart = type store around halloween time. It's made of hollow plastic. After you get = your skeleton(s), paint it/them with the off white/dingy yellow paint. After the paint completely dries, attach some crepe hair (available at any theatrical supply store year yound) on a few spots on the head. make it = look like just a tiny bit of hair hasn't rotted off the skull. Just use some Elmer's=AE glue to attach it. For the effect of the skin sluffing off, = take some torn, small pieces of wax paper and attach it in various spots on the body with the glue.The next step is to add just a tiny bit of stage blood (available around Halloween at Wal-Mart or year-yound at a theatrical = supply store) in random places on the body. The last step is to display your = corpse around your tombstones. lay corpses on some loose soil - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Jason Head From: Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 14:29:07 EDT latex caulk can be picked up at a hardware store in or near the paint = aisle. It comes in a tube and you will need a caulk gun ( about $4.00) to = use the caulk. It is used generally used to seal the edge of a tile, = bathtub, countertops and a variety of other stuff. Once dry the caulk is = paintable. You can use any type paint. I just use latex paint that comes = in the little bottles from the crafts stores. TIP: When shaping the caulk or smearing it around on the styrofoam head, = if you dip your finger in water the caulk will not stick to your finger = and makes it less messy. I use a ton if it on the faces of my props. - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: corpse help From: "Wraith" Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 17:03:02 -0700 Vampy D, I've made some cheap but effective mummies based on Tom Oliver's original = process. The whole process costs about $20 and looks good. I start with the blow molded plastic skeletons that sell for between $7 to = $15 at Pic n Save. I then replace the hands and feet with the corpse hand techniques detailed = at http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Portal/9539/handshow.html. I also = replaced the head with a WalMart special for another $7 because I needed to have a hinged jaw, but = that isn't necessary. The skeleton is then wrapped with wide masking tape (3" or better) = lengthwise down the body and along the limbs. The mummies are then colored using brown and black shoe polish. Finally = they are varnished to keep the colors from rubbing off. For a few dollars more, you can also give it a more realistic look by = using liquid latex, sand and kitty litter. To see pics of my corpse in process, go to = www.guiseandghouls.com and click events/photos/sept 1999 workshop. - - - - - Subject: Re: Re: PVC Body Forms From: "William Prince" Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 16:09:35 -0700 thanks for the info, it's an interesting site, and the body form looks pretty easy. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thee ScareCrow" To: "Halloween List" Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 3:11 PM Subject: Hall: Re: PVC Body Forms > The Prince, > > http://casadesade.tripod.com/nfg/index.html - - - - - Subject: Gore Galore Goodies From: "Mr. Gore" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:48:49 -0500 I just thought I would post some updates *Keeba's stones rock!* -The deposit has been paid on the t-shirts. I have kept everone's email = and will let you know when they are in. -We have just made some major aesthetic changes to the website. And for once, I am actually happy with it. I would appreciate some feedback on it. = I wanted to put a little fun back into it. You will know what i mean when = you see the intro page at www.gore-galore.com. -We have sent out a ton of catalogs, but if anyone else would like one = just let me know. I would be happy to send one to you. -I wish I had a digital camera because I have started four different corpsification techniques for my demonstration at the horrorfind = convention. Don't worry, I am taking pictures. I just don't have a digital camera. I will be taking four finished corpses and doing the demonstration on = skulls. I also have tons of small ACC items to give away. I hope everyone's projects are going great, and happy haunting. Keep GORE alive! GORE GALORE and so much more Kevin R. Alvey AKA Mr. Gore phone 812-424-5220 - - - - - Subject: body sculpting From: "Gene Beldean" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:03:36 -0400 I am just finishing up a witch for a friend of mine, and have had great success with hardware cloth(chicken wire). With this stuff you can sculpt the arms, torso, head and legs and it really looks good under a robe.It's lightweight, strong, and completely water proof. You won't need any foam. For the easiest sculpting, use 1" chicken wire. All you have to do is roll a cylinder, and start grabbing a handful here and there and squeeze the wire together. You can go through the entire body until the pose and proportions are right. It's also very easy to splice on arms and legs. Just make your arm, and tie it onto the body with galvanized wire. It's amazing how realistic this simple process can turn out. For a stiffer and more durable mannequin, I like to use the 1/2" wire mesh. It is more difficult to work with, and you have to squeeze/sculpt with pliers, but the finished product will be much more durable and stable. To secure your body onto your pvc(I like to use copper tube framing), just tie on with galv. wire. Hello, I'm in the process of making PVC dummies and need help finding large pieces of foam or something to fill out the clothes so the proportion is somewhat of a humans, anyone got any ideas what to use and where to find it? - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re:Bone ladder sinew From: "digger C" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 09:18:49 -0400 i use liquid nails and be sloppy it looks like cartilage or dried flesh >From: FUZZYSLIPR at aol.com >Reply-To: "Halloween List" >To: Halloween-L at WildRice.com >Subject: Hall: Re:Bone ladder sinew >Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2001 22:09:41 EDT > >Hey anybody got any ideas as to what to use to put toghether my bone >ladder. >I am fortunate that my husband works in the medical feed and we just = happen >to have an abundunce of femur(?) bones, so....I am going to make a = ladder. >I >would like to put it together with some juicy torn flesh or something = like >that. Any ideas? - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: body sculpting From: "Sue McDonald" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 07:35:01 -0700 I, too, like the chicken wire but as usual, I go to the extreme. When I first started working with it, I measured out several people for some proportions. Since the only person that was always around when I wanted to do the chicken wire forms was ME, many of my forms are very consistent. I have been known to be found in the dining room with chicken wire wrapped around legs and arms and torso. I prefer the 1" chicken wire in the 48" wide roll but I take what I can get. I am even contemplating using some of the hardware cloth for the meatier part of hands prior to MM or foaming them. Sue Gene Beldean wrote: > > I am just finishing up a witch for a friend of mine, and have had great > success with hardware cloth(chicken wire). > With this stuff you can sculpt the arms, torso, head and legs and it > really looks good under a robe.It's lightweight, strong, and completely > water proof. You won't need any foam. - - - - - Subject: Re: body sculpting From: "Iron Kingdom" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:35:37 -0400 > also very easy to splice on arms and legs. Just make your arm, and tie > it onto the body with galvanized wire. > To secure your body onto your pvc(I like to use copper tube framing), > just tie on with galv. wire. You may also try pieces of duct tape to attach the chicken wire. Easier on the fingers than galvanized wire. And much easier to remove if you aren't happy with the positioning. Just a thought, Lady Iron - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: body sculpting From: Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:38:30 EDT In a message dated 7/30/01 6:06:29 AM, ebeldean at downingexhibits.com = writes: << For a stiffer and more durable mannequin, I like to use the 1/2" wire mesh. It is more difficult to work with, and you have to squeeze/sculpt with pliers, but the finished product will be much more durable and stable. >> I agree! I was wondering about all the discussion over what kind of = foam or "padding" to use for figures, when I've always just made mine from the chicken wire itself. The 1/2" stuff is especially strong when put = together right. I've made werewolves over six feet tall and reapers over seven = feet and never had a problem with them keeping their shape unless I tried to = use VERY heavy costuming on them. The nicest thing about c wire is that you = can really shape the limbs to simulate a human (or other) body. Just be = careful not to put any "sharp" bends in the arms or legs.... that the one thing = that does weaken the figure. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: body sculpting From: Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:49:03 EDT In a message dated 7/30/01 8:42:21 AM, rwmvs2 at psci.net writes: << You may also try pieces of duct tape to attach the chicken wire. Easier = on the fingers than galvanized wire. And much easier to remove if you aren't happy with the positioning. >> Or, you can just clip a few "loose ends" from the chicken wire itself, = and use those to wrap around the connecting body part. Such as, at the top of = your arm (the shoulder), clip the wire so you have several loose ends, and = use those to attach to the torso by wrapping them around the intact wire = on that part. - - - - - Subject: Re: body sculpting From: "Iron Kingdom" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 10:57:48 -0400 Yep, done that too! No matter how you cut it there will be little sharp = ends somewhere so why not use them. LOL Lady Iron Check out our new Halloween Domain.... http://www.TheIronKingdom.com Custom Ironwork..... http://www.villagesmithy.itgo.com/ And come see us in the crypt.... http://www.oneillpcs.com/haunt/chat > Or, you can just clip a few "loose ends" from the chicken wire itself, and > use those to wrap around the connecting body part. Such as, at the top = of > your arm (the shoulder), clip the wire so you have several loose ends, = and > use those to attach to the torso by wrapping them around the intact wire on > that part. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Prop Help From: "Maggie Bell" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 06:48:53 -1000 Chicken wire works best for me . . . read some of the other posts on "body = sculpting" . . . this is right up your alley. I once made a life size rhinoceros out of chicken wire and paper mache. I = used newspaper and that blue laundry starch, you can get it at the = supermarket for about $1.29 a gallon . . . My favorite part was adding = the coarse hairs that rhino's have, which will work for a cactus as well. When finished applying the paper mache and it is dried, I used a needle to = puncture small holes. I then took the hair of a stiff paint brush and = glued them all over. It looked very cool! halloween13 wrote: > I have to make a prop cactus for a friend of mine and I was going to use = a wire frame covered with paper mache. I was thinking about using chicken = wire but I have never used it before. > > How would I go about doing this? Do I make a frame using regular wire = and then cover that with chicken wire? What do I use to cut the chicken = wire and how do I attach it to the frame? Any tips and suggestions are = greatly appreciated. - - - - - Subject: Re: Re:Bone ladder sinew From: "james maguire" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:54:56 -0400 You can get sinew, both artificial and real, from Grey Owl. http://greyowlcrafts.com Phobos http://www.phobos-deimos.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2001 10:09 PM Subject: Hall: Re:Bone ladder sinew > Hey anybody got any ideas as to what to use to put toghether my bone ladder. > I am fortunate that my husband works in the medical feed and we just happen > to have an abundunce of femur(?) bones, so....I am going to make a = ladder. I > would like to put it together with some juicy torn flesh or something = like > that. Any ideas? - - - - - Subject: Online Class & Body Sculpting From: "Aileen Wedeking" Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 12:34:30 -0500 Blank Hi Everyone, I am teaching a class on the very basic level of making an prop out of a five foot plastic skeleton for the shape and design with burlap and = drywall mud to cover it. I am not about to try to teach an online class using chicken wire as I have done for many moons now myself. LOL I was wondering if any of you have websites that you would give me permission to have my students look at your wonderful works of art! This is so they can see what one can create with a little drywall mud and fun. I also design costumes and other fun things as I am a regular home haunter for the past 12+ years. If we don't have a haunt or party for some reason = we do add new props each and every year so far. This year promises to be the biggest party yet! I really appreciate anyone allowing me a chance to show off some of your great props! Thanks so much for any help! Aileen Oh here is were you can find my online class: Please Check Out My Online Classes At: http://www.costumeclassroom.com Please check out my website: http://www.geocities.com/fairy_bluetopaz/ My eBay Auctions: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=3Dbluetopa= z2& include=3D0&since=3D-1&sort=3D2&rows=3D25 My Own Free Auction Site For Crafters(No fees of any kind for selling or buying ): http://www2.gloreb.com/cgi-bin/auction.pl List Owner of CraftersExchange: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CraftersExchange?yguid=3D59159276 I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me 90% how I react to it. And so it is with you...we are in charge of our ATTITUDES Aileen :) - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Lester the Corpse; ebay From: "WebMistress" Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 08:14:59 -0700 (PDT) Buy a Bucky for $70 ... then use Terror Syndicate's corpse method $30 and = your done at $100.00 and the whole corpse is done, instead of the head and = hands only. But your right ... it does look cool :) I'm getting ready to try to make = my 1st Destafano .. I hope it turns out! Doesn't look easy. Webby --- "Joe Pfeiffer" > wrote: >Looks like a destafano corpse, if so $200 isn't a bad price. >http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D1172357345 - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Lester the Corpse; ebay From: "Bradley" Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 13:09:55 -0400 That's what I do - buy the Bucky and do my own corpsing method - turns out wonderfully realistic without being too gory. Think I'm going to sell = some of them this year. I've got lots of time on my hands and a great place to work this year. Plus, being out in the country, I don't know if there's = any point to a big display. I doubt we'll get any TOT's. Psychotic Fairy ----- Original Message ----- From: WebMistress To: Halloween List Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 11:14 AM Subject: Re: Hall: Lester the Corpse; ebay > Buy a Bucky for $70 ... then use Terror Syndicate's corpse method $30 = and your done at $100.00 and the whole corpse is done, instead of the head and hands only. > > But your right ... it does look cool :) I'm getting ready to try to = make my 1st Destafano .. I hope it turns out! Doesn't look easy. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Frank hands and forearms. From: "Damien Stafford" Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:13:08 -0700 (PDT) Well Rick, From what I have heard the hands that Terror Syndicate make are rather large and they look good and come up past the wrist.They are hard urethane hands and with some paint and small alterations they might work very well for you! ~TVD~ --- Rick R Mortiz wrote: > I'm looking for a really accurate set of hands for > my lifesize frankenstein > prop I'm building. Seems last year there was a > Universal Licensed set though > a bit oversized, that they were selling at Spirit > Stores. Dont know who made > them. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Frank hands and forearms. From: "Pirates of Emerson" Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 21:27:19 -0700 You might give Tom a shout at Evil Toad. He's had undetailed, unfinished hands with wrists for $14.00 a pair, but I don't know how many sets (if any) he has left. http://www.hometown.aol.com/eviltoad09/eviltoadstudios.htm - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Frank hands and forearms. From: Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 08:15:04 -0700 > From what I have heard the hands that Terror >Syndicate make are rather large and they look good and >come up past the wrist.They are hard urethane hands >and with some paint and small alterations they might >work very well for you! http://terrorsyndicate.com/bodypartsdept.htm They are 12" from the wrist to the tip of the middle finger and they have= 3" of forearm. I use a pair in conjunction with a 6.5' Monster Mud prop. I leave as much of the wrist exposed as possible, ala Frankenstein, and they look great. They can also be "posed" quite easily. I cut wedges out of the knuckles to form the hands into fists. One hand grasps the handle of a kerosene lantern and the other hand holds the handle of a shovel. I haven't painted them yet. I plan to brush on a coat or two of mask latex and then airbrush them with different shades of flesh-colored latex mask paint. - - - - - Subject: Origami Skeleton From: "Jenna Farnham" Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 15:52:51 -0400 If you've *really* got too much time on your hands, here're the instructions for making a surprisingly detailed origami skeleton: http://origami.kvi.nl/models/humans/skeleton/index.htm - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Success! From: "Bradley" Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 08:38:12 -0400 Right now, I am working on corpses. I've got skulls and arms all over the dining room table. :-P After weather-proofing today, they'll be good to = go. I enjoy this so much, I am selling them this year to recoup my H expenses (and make Hubby happy). I've been doing research on what a mummified = corpse REALLY looks like and perfecting the look of my props. Finally got it = right this year. I just get the shivers when doing them. I swear they even = feel right! I never liked the rubber feel of the corpse props I've found. NO OFFENSE to anyone, PLEASE!!!.......... I just like the more realistic feeling stuff - ok, that sounded bad..... - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Suggestions? From: "Mr. Gore" Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:59:27 -0500 What you are talking about, I will be doing a demonstration on in = Baltimore MA at the horrorfind convention. We will be covering several methods using buckies. It should be fun. http://www.horrorfind.com/ There is more info here. GORE GALORE and so much more Kevin R. Alvey AKA Mr. Gore phone 812-424-5220 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bradley" To: "Halloween List" Sent: Friday, August 10, 2001 9:34 AM Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Suggestions? > Trust me - my props will NEVER equal yours... Mine are definitely lower > budget - made with Bucky bones and......oh wait, that's secret. hehe - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Excited! From: "WebMistress" Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 07:37:49 -0700 (PDT) I don't paint over mine ... never thought about it. I don't think they = are too noticeable in the dark. Now on the GITD Skeleton ... all the holes are noticeable, but there's not = much you can do about that. Webby --- "dawn rice" > wrote: >I just got my Bucky Bones today also! and same here---excited. My = husband >thinks I'm nuts too. (he just step up behind me as I was typing and said = "I >guess now I will have to let him buy some cigars"). > >For those who have the 33 1/2 skeletons, do you paint over the gold = screws >and nuts or are they not too noticable during the haunt? - - - - - Subject: Re: Re: Halloween-L Digest #1934 - 01/08/11 From: "Mr. Gore" Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 16:56:04 -0500 Try this, http://griplipproductions.homestead.com/mainpage.html He gives pretty good instructions using the Latex and cotton balls technique. Terror Syndicte uses latex and stretchy spider webs. GORE GALORE and so much more Kevin R. Alvey AKA Mr. Gore phone 812-424-5220 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Blansfield" To: "Halloween List" Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 10:45 AM Subject: Hall: Re: Halloween-L Digest #1934 - 01/08/11 > Can anybody tell me if the "Terror Syndicate" website closed down? I > have been trying to bring it up for the last few days with no > success. If it has "given up the ghost", does anyone know of any > good sites that show how to create realistic looking corpses out of > ACC Bucky skeletons? Thanks! - - - - -