This file is one of the Wolfstone archives of the Halloween mailing lists. You can find out more, and reach the entire collection here: http://www.pobox.com/~wolfstone/_r/HalloweenArchive.html This particular archive deals with "blinking lights" topics. This includes: o all forms of blinkers with a fixed period o automatic faders It does NOT include related topics: o (random) flickering - - - - - Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 17:41:00 -0500 From: Derek Schwab To: halloween-l at netcom.com Subject: Re: Black/Purple Light switching [was Re: A new idea?] Aaron K. Wynn-Hinman wrote: > Jim Kadel wrote: > > I wouldn't bother with a "rotating fixture". > > Just use a timer controlled relay. > > Set 50% ON ratio, and a 2 to 3 sec. total cycle time. > > [snip] > > In the example above each light would be ON > > for 1.0 to 1.5 secs. in a "flip flop" manner. > > Jim, > > I'm probably out of my depth here, technically speaking, but are you > saying that the black light (Jimmy specified fluorescent) would be shut > off every couple of seconds, i.e. - blink? Is that easily achieved with > a fluorescent? (I know, I know, I've seen the blinking neon signs, but > am asking anyway.) Upon being warmed up adequately, would the black > light be able to be turned on (and off) repeatedly without a delay? I > seem to recall some sort of shutter system (as discussed long ago on > this list) being mentioned to try handling a "strobing" BLB effect. > > -Kevan The best way to flash a flourescent light is to use a preheat type ballast and replace the starter with a relay. When the relay contacts are closed, the bulb filaments would glow. When the relay opens, the bulb would light.Using the same idea, (contrary to popular belief) flourescent lights are very easy to dim. Simple remove one wire from each end of the tube, and connect a SEPARATE 6v transformer to each filament. The transformers heat the filaments enought to sustain an arc within the tube at low light levels. Flashing neon signs are a little different. Neon starts instantly and does not require a few seconds to start like a flourescent. All you have to do is turn the power to the transformer on and off. - - - - - From: PBres at aol.com Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:32:15 EDT Subject: Re: HALL: pulsing light Pam wrote:> Ok, I need to know if anyone out there knows how to make a pulsating light. I am finally making my Suit of Armor and I would like to make the eye area glow with a pulsating light from within. I would appreciate any help. Thanks, The last issue of HAPA had an article by Jim Kadel called "Fade IN/Out LED circuit". I plan on using this circuit for two gargoyles I will mount by my front door. - - - - - Subject: Re: HALL: Strobe flasher Date: Fri, 28 Aug 98 14:21:04 -0800 From: The Sound Commando To: "halloween-l" On 8/28/98 01:09 I received email from john which stated ... >>The Sound Commando wrote: >> >> >> I seem to recall there being a circuit in one of my cookbooks that will >> strobe a standard 7.5v christmas/night light so bright you wouldn't want >> to put it in the baby's room. It grossly over voltages the bulb but, for >> such a very short time that it doesn't blow it out. If that's what your >> trying to do .... I can dig through some cookbooks and see if I can find >> the schematic. > >Bruce, I wouldn't mind seeing this one as well. John, Not only can I not believe I remembered this circuit, I'm amazed I remembered which book it was in. (Normally I have a hard time remembering where my car keys are) Anyway, it's in a huge book edited by John Markus which says the circuit was originally published in the May 1970 issue of Popular Electronics (pp.48-50 & 86). The discription is as follows: "500-CP Flasher - too bright for indoor use. Ideal for marking pier at night or as emergency flasher. Draws 2 A from 12v battery. Use ordinary 117v 6W D26 Christmas tree lamp or 6S6. Oscillator converts battery supply to AC for step-up by transformer. Dual pot R2 determines duration of each flash, while dual pot R1 sets flashing rate. Despite overvoltage, lamp does not burn out because it cools between flashes. - T.Couch, Super Flash" Now if yourself or anyone else on the list are still interested, I'll see about getting the scheme scanned. It's a pretty simple circuit. (2) 2N2869 transistors; (2) dual pots; (2) 100ohm resistors; a step-up transformer and a couple caps. I still can't believe I remembered this! LOL - - - - - From: EtaCarinae at aol.com Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 17:17:52 EDT Subject: HALL: Fake Strobelight Hello Everyone, I posted a message earlier regarding a light flasher circuit, but at the time I didn't have anything posted to my web space. It now exists at: http://members.aol.com/etacarinae/fakestrobe.html Does anyone know of a place to get clip art for electronic schematic symbols? I had to draw the circuit by hand and it took a little while to do it. It would speed things up if I could find some clip art. Thank you. - - - - - From: EtaCarinae at aol.com Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:21:34 EDT Subject: Re: Re: HALL: Fake Strobelight In a message dated 8/28/98 9:17:53 PM, you wrote: << Mike, R4 set flash speed??>> Yes, R4, the 1K ohm resistor, adjusts the flash rate. The flash rate varies from about 1 per second up to 60 per second (which makes it look like it's just on normally). I haven't checked it with an oscilloscope to see what the frequency range is, so the above numbers are approximations. - - - - - From: EtaCarinae at aol.com Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 11:10:27 EDT Subject: Re: Re: HALL: Fake Strobelight In a message dated 8/28/98 10:28:28 PM, Bruce wrote: <> I've had strings of Christmas lights plugged into it as well as 100 watt bulbs. In earlier posts to the group I mentioned about the flash frequency. There's something I should clarify here just a bit. For low wattage bulbs the frequencies stated are accurate, but as you increase the wattage of the load the low end frequency starts going up and doesn't flash as slowly. Depending upon the desired effect choose your bulb wattage appropriately. The SCR is rated for 200 watts. If you're going to be pushing that kind of load through it make sure that it has a heat sink. - - - - - Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 13:22:07 -0500 From: Eddie White Subject: Re: HALL: Strobe flasher don't know why i didn't remember this, did it long ago. you can take a 555 with an inverter transistor, hit a 3volt christmas "twinkle" lamp with 12volts at 20ms and it's pretty d*** bright. those little bulbs can take a beating. only real problem was the envelope went black after a few hours of operation due to the boiled off tungsten. but at a nickle a piece for the bulbs... - - - - - From: EtaCarinae at aol.com Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:10:49 EDT Subject: Re: Re: HALL: Fake Strobelight In a message dated 8/30/98 12:00:14 PM, Don wrote: << Mike, R4 set flash speed??>> >> All this talk about losing posts, and this one came up! I don't know who EtaCarinae is or if he/she belongs to the list, but I swear I sent this question... I remember 'cuz I got Mark's name wrong and the terseness of my qustion. Weird! Don>> You did send this question. I did respond to it. Afterward, I realized that I posted the wrong resistor (R4, the 1K, instead of R3, the 200k potentiometer) as being the one which controlled the rate of flashing. My apologies for the error. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Blinking Eyes From: "Carl Cowley" Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 09:19:18 -0800 The ones are my page are for 15 pair of LED eyes. It might be the page = you were looking for. The plans are at http://www.ghoc.org/halloween . They work well for my purposes! - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: LED eyes From: Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:52:05 EST I created some eyes out of blinking christmas lights and empty film = canisters. The Christmas lights are the kind with multiple flashing = effects. The chasing/slow fade effect is the best for this prop. = Instructions can be found on my (out-of-date) web site: http://hometown.aol.com/smessin983/Halloween/Eyes.html - - - - - From: "Christopher J. Fortin" Subject: Re: Hall: Dimmer repeat capacitor? Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 16:50:01 GMT I don't know who person c is but I think I know the kit he talked about. It's a slow on/slow off dimmer kit. Jameco part #127589 $22.95. Check it out at www.jameco.com Chris > >Does anyone remember a post about using a 'touch the lamp' dimmer to create > >a pulsing light using a capacitor? > > Yes, I remember that thread, but it died before being the lamp-dimmer design > was reduced to practice. > > Person A asked for a way to have a light repeat brighten/dim/brighten/dim > forever. > > Person B [might have been Ironman] pointed that "touch the lamp" dimmers will > cycle from dim to bright and back as long as you touch them. If, instead of > using your finger, you use a capacitor to ground, it might do what "A" wanted. > > Person C chimed in with the location of a kit that does all of the above. > I think it was Jameco. > > Sorry for being hazy on the details, but that's about how it went. > > - Jack of Shadows - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Dimmer repeat capacitor? From: "Tim Doggett" Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 11:01:33 -0800 Actually, I believe I was person b. We use this type of device for a lighting effect in our coffin. A 'touch-plate' wall dimmer has the touch-plate bypassed to ground ith a 65pf capacitor to simulate the touch. The Jameco part seems more useful since the fade rate is adjustable. -Tim -----Original Message----- From: Christopher J. Fortin To: Halloween List Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 8:56 AM Subject: Re: Hall: Dimmer repeat capacitor? >I don't know who person c is but I think I know the kit he talked about. >It's a slow on/slow off dimmer kit. Jameco part #127589 $22.95. Check it >out at www.jameco.com - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: For the technical gifted! From: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 17:07:37 EDT Simple light bulb flasher almost identical to what your trying to do - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Broken Strobe From: "Mat Goebel" Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:56:04 -0700 mmmmmm, if youve replaced the bulb and it still doesnt work, try the fuse. If it isnt the fuse, you may want to try replacing the power connector (all though that most likely isnt it). If you want to void your warranty and sacrafice it for the sake of knowing how to repair one in the future, go ahead and open it up (AFTER you unplug it and let it sit for 10 minutes). Be sure while youre poking around inside to *KEEP ONE HAND BEHIND YOU BACK AT ALL TIMES* This will prevent you from receiving an electrical shock across your test. Just look for anything suspicious (ie, char marks around an IC; maybe thats the one that blew?). If you REALLY want to get into it, pickup this months Nut's and Volts, there is an article in there about how to construct your own Party Strobe. The circuit inside your strobe should be similar to that in the magazine, so you may be able to do some trouble shooting from there. Just remember, I am not responsible for anything that you do =3D) - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Broken Strobe From: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 20:23:51 -0500 Strobe bulbs illuminate by igniting gas much like a neon tube. If the gas had leaked out in a hairline crack, it won't work. It's burned out, but not chared. Try a new bulb, but if that doesn't do the trick, you may as well replace the entire fixture. Nice thing is that you now have a replacement bulb. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Broken Strobe From: "Dennis Griesser" Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 21:51:55 PDT bobspong1 at juno.com suggested: >Your strobe could have a blown fuse. If it's already broken, what >do you have to loose if you open it up? Maybe your life! Strobe circuits can be quite dangerous. Vaporizing the tip of a screwdriver or test probe is the least of your worries. And they can hold a charge even when they have been turned off for a long time. Cheapie strobes can be had for $15, so you might not want to bother unless this is a high-end unit. But if you are really determined... If the unit has a fuse, test it first. Then look for high voltage across the xenon tube. You are looking for roughly 330VDC. If you can't find that, there is something wrong with your voltage doubler. Check the diodes. Then the caps. If you have high voltage across the xenon tube, there is something wrong with either the trigger circuit or timing circuit. Look for a little ne-2 lamp inside. They frequently go bad and are inexpensive to replace. Let me know what you find, and we can continue from there. You can learn a lot about strobes from my haunting with strobes page. You can get to it from the main Halloween page: - Jack of Shadows - - - - - Subject: STROBES & SEIZURES From: "Barb & Lar" Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 10:56:01 -0400 A camera flash will not induce a seizure. Repeatedly flashing a camera = flash will not induce a seizure. It is next to impossible. The more you flash a = camera flash unit, the longer it takes each time to recharge before you can set = off another flash. You will read in the post below that it takes from between = 5 and 30 hertz to even be possible to induce a seizure and this is ONLY IF the = person receiving the stimuli sufferers from photosensitive epilepsy. You can NOT = make someone who is does not suffer from this illness, HAVE A SEIZURE, no = matter how hard you try. Hopefully this will dispell some notions about strobes and flashing = lights. I posted this in the spring when a heated debate was going on about whether = or not it is safe/practical/wise/dangerous/whatever to have strobe lights as part = of your haunt. If you are interested in why it is OK to have a strobe as part of = your haunt, please read: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Subject: STROBES & SEIZURES (some answers perhaps) From: "Barb & Larry" Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 07:27:14 -0500 Hi all, SumthnEvil aka Barb here and maybe I can answer some of your = strobe questions for ya. I'm a nurse working in psychiatry for 14 years and the specific type of = seizure you are talking about is a "photosensive seizure". Photosensitive seizures happen in a small percentage of people with = epilepsy but not all epileptics have photosenstivity seizures. In photosensitive epileptics, the most common triggers (to initiate a = seizure) are NOT strobe lights at all. More often it is very fast flashes of light = associated with television, video monitors, video displays (games), sunlight = sparkling off water, sunlight flowing through trees. Strobe lights are also triggers = but just appear less commonly in daily life. Patterns can also cause the same type = of seizure, patterns like stairs, train tracks or escalator risers, the = windshield wipers running aross the windshield of a car or any number of other = flashing or patterned movements. There is documentation of children (this type of = seizure is more common in children BTW) being able to induce a seizure by looking up = at the sun and waving their hand in front of the their face thus creating the = rhythmic flashing light. Someone mentioned frequency of light and they are = correct. Seizures of this variety occur when the light frequency is approximately = 5-30 hertz (flashes per second). This is a reference range only. Anticonvulsant medication (anti-seizure medication) used to control = seizures may or may not completely prevent a photosensitive seizure from occuring. BUT = anyone who is taking medication for this would already know what their "triggers" = are and would likely avoid the trigger like the plague. The only population who = would be innocently "at risk" (if that is the concern) would be the undiagnosed patron, so unless you are a paid = member of JoJo's psychic alliance, then I don't believe there is anything that you can do about someone having a first = time seizure, no matter where they are or what they are doing. The reason strobes work so well to induce a seizure is that they are = usually presented in a dark or dimly lit room, enhancing the reflection and = "sensorium" of the light. Strobes are so good at inducing seizure that they are used to = Diagnose photosensitive seizures in a person with seizure disorder. The person = sits semi-prone on a dentist syle chair and has their eyes closed. The room is = dimly lit and the strobe is on for ~ 10-15 minutes, give or take. You can warn people in advance as a "courtesy" and that is what I = personally would recommend for those who use strobes in their haunt. People with this = disorder will have their seizure where and when the stimuli strikes and you aren't accountable for that. I would worry that if you posted thorough warning = signs that you might create for yourself a "self-fullfilling prophecy" in that = you would be in a sense stating "be careful my haunt is scary and dangerous, = potentially threatening to your health etc... Keep it to a courtesy and everyone = should be just fine. Hope this helps, Barb aka SumthnEvil on AOL IM - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Simple plug-in flashers? From: "Josh Coen" Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 06:36:17 -0700 > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not = understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3051671777_4783648_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset=3D"ISO-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable I think I know what you're talking about. I have one and got it at Ace Hardware. I don't know if you can buy them online, but you can check out a picture at http://www.acecisupply.com/ Search for flashing plug adapters or winkers. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Re: Repeating Dimmer From: "Malcolm Little" Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:30:29 -0500 The dimming rate is fixed. This type of dimmer operates by itself when it detects that someone is touching its' sensor. The little capacitor merely simulates someone's finger, telling the dimmer circuitry to do its' thing. The capacitor value could likely vary significantly and still work - you could try what you may find in the junk- box and see. -Malcolm chillitng at aol.com wrote: > > Hi Wilo: > > > Finally got around to reading the new Haunted Attractions.Ê It has > > a description of how to make a "repeating dimmer".Ê Sounds simple > > enough, but I was hoping someone could make it a bit simpler for > > me.Ê Can anyone help? > >ÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ I was wondering about this prop/tool, too.Ê But I was wondering = if a > different sized capacitor would cause the dimming and brightening to > occur more rapidly, less rapidly, or whatever.Ê It's a shame that the > two authors didn't include an e-mail address or a website.Ê Maybe > someone here on the list will see this and contact them . . . or > perhaps they are on the list and will answer. - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Dimming LEDs From: "Jim Kadel" Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 11:36:14 -0500 Kat, Way back in 1998, I published an article in Stu McIntire's HAPA periodical that had this circuit for "theater effect" dim/brighten. http://home.rica.net/jimk/help/ledckt.gif I don't think I'm violating some trust with HAPA by briefly re-publishing this circuit for you, now. (since HAPA has ceased to be published) This circuit was originally fount on the Net, and I reformed the formal schematic into a pictorial for those who may find it easier to int And as I found certain problems with this circuit, it is not the circuit that is used in the Haunt Master Products, "LED Eyes" and "Strobing LED Eyes". http://members.aol.com/hmpi/index12.htm Jim =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DÊ REFÊ = =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D At 09:58 AM 3/31/01 -0500, you wrote: >Hey ghoulies, > >I know how to make a regular set up of LEDs with a 9vt battery, but I was >wondering if anyone has the schematics/parts info of how to make a set of >dimming LEDS? (i.e. they would brighten and then fade, brighten and then >fade) with a 9vt battery.Ê Anyone? - - - - - Subject: Re: Hall: Dimming LEDs From: "Jim Kadel" Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 11:41:38 -0500 Erratta: ------------------------------------------------------------- This circuit was originally found on the Net, and I reformed the formal schematic into a pictorial for those who may find it easier to interpret. - - - - - Subject: RE: Hall: Dimming LEDs From: "Jim Kadel" Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 12:21:31 -0500 Kat, The problems were those related to building a "product line" of LED Eyes, not to anything one would notice in building a single set of Eyes. [For instance:ÊÊ this circuit didn't work well for ALLÊ LED colors, and I didn't like the fact that the dim/brighten times were noticeably unequal] After all, we provide something better for our LED Eyes.Ê :>) Jim =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DÊ REFÊ = =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D At 11:51 AM 3/31/01 -0500, you wrote: >Thanks Jim....I knew I could count on you!Ê What kind of problems did you >experience with this setup?? - - - - - Subject: Re:LEDS as Eyes - errata From: "Jim Kadel" Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 10:23:41 -0400 Oops.. sorry here's the URL referred to at this point in my previous post. >and for those who want to imitate our LED Eyes effect:Ê a diagram for wiring a "theater dim/brighten" led eyes circuit (*not* the one used for our product, however).< http://home.rica.net/jimk/list/ledckt.gif - - - - - Subject: Re: Howl - pepper's ? From: "Tom Rose" Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 15:10:22 -0700 > I seem to recall someone mentioning a resistor on a touch lamp? Issue #24 of Haunted Attraction (given out free by Leonard at Convergence) has instructions for a repeating dimmer on page nine. It uses the touch type dimmer found at most home stores with a 65 pico-farad cap installed between the metal touch plate and a ground point. - - - - - Subject: Leviton 6606 Works! (was Re: Howl - Dimmer ? #2) From: "Bob Poniatowski" Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 17:00:55 -0700 Hi all, I just wired up the Leviton 6606 dimmer switch and it works just fine. I used .047 uF (microFarad) capacitors from Radio Shack, part number 272-1068. They were 75 cents for two. That's actually 47,000 pF, isn't = it? It worked, that's all that matters. Now I have to figure out how to permanently attach the cap to the switch...I'm not sure the metal on that switch face will take solder. = I'll try later... - - - - - Subject: Re: Leviton 6606 Works! (was Re: Howl - Dimmer ? #2) From: "Bob Poniatowski" Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 23:26:11 -0700 Capacitor values and grounding methods, oh, I'm sure everyone is reading with rapt attentiozzzzzzzzzzzzzzz... ;) Nope, it's not three stages, it's a very gradual change from off to full brightness and then back down. Not "jerky" or "steppy" at all. Very = smooth and nice. The full cycle (off-on-off) takes about 7-8 seconds. I meant to mention that in the last post (I timed it just because I knew that someone would ask!). It seems that out of that total time it spends a second or two in the off state, and a second or two at full brightness, and the rest of the time moving between the two. So it's a fairly moderate fade up and fade down. I've got two of the dimmers, so I might tear the other one apart = and see if there's an obvious way to change the cycle time (different cap = inside or something). The grounding cap is looped around the screw that holds the border plate around the switch, which screws into the switch body - so it's grounded. = I took a bunch of pictures of the assembly - it was really very, very easy. Maybe 15 minutes tops, and only because I was figuring it out along the = way and double checking the connections. One wire nut, a few screws, and = you're done. I'll try to get everything up on a website sometime this weekend. What am I going to use it for? I haven't a clue! I just read about it, thought it was cool, and then stumbled across the dimmer on sale for half off at Home Depot. At $10 a pop I grabbed two, figuring I'll find a use = for them! The rest of the parts needed to build the thing only cost $5-$7, so for under $20 I've got pulsating lights. Someone had suggested putting one down in a hole in the ground with a red lamp and fog to simulate a lava/magma/hades-gate sort of thing. Or maybe with a pepper's setup to make something change back and forth = continuously. I'm planning to build a crypt for the front yard and scare the kids from = in there, so maybe I'll backlight myself with a blue pulsing light. I don't know, I'm open to suggestions! - - - - - Subject: Re: Leviton 6606 Works! (was Re: Howl - Dimmer ? #2) From: "Tim D" Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 00:34:09 -0700 Congratulations, I am glad that your efforts were successful and you like the effect. A little history and usage notes: Greg MacLaurin http://www.hauntinggrounds.org/hhggm.htm (the creator of the original Floating Lantern effect) noticed the action of the dimmer when held continuously and though it would be interesting to use for an "art" piece. Obviously it is impractical for someone to stand around touching a dimmer plate all day, and applying a large quantity of meat seemed impractical, = so he asked me how we might fake the dimmer into thinking it was being = pressed. Having previously completed work with some capacitive touch sensors used = in interactive exhibits, I knew that the "standard body capacitance" for such devices is about 65pF. We applied a cap to the dimmer and the thing actually worked, and kept working. Greg used the dimmer to control a = light in a globe that was being held in the hand of a life-sized figure of a = young girl that he had standing in the corner of his living room. While that = may seem odd, it was actually pretty normal for Greg's home. In the Hallowed Haunting Grounds the device is used to control lights in a coffin http://www.hauntinggrounds.org/hhgban.htm . The next cool thing wounld be a hack to synchronize two dimmers, = preferably inverted to make a cross-fade dimmer. Maybe something related to the Phantasmechanics Flicker Pilot. = http://www.phantasmechanics.com/fpilot.html - - - - - Subject: New Pulsing Light Website (was Re: Howl - Dimmer ? #2) From: "Bob Poniatowski" Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 11:00:12 -0700 I just published a page outlining how to make the pulsing light. Here's = the website, the link is near the bottom of the page: http://members.nbci.com/bobpony/ohsoscary/ Lots of pictures, a parts list - but no schematic yet. It's pretty simple to follow, I doubt you'll have any trouble! The only thing I'd add is that the cover plate doesn't fit around the = three prong outlet completely - I couldn't find a cover that had both a rectangular cutout for the dimmer and two circular cutouts for the outlet. It's still pretty well covered, just something I'd like to improve... - - - - - Subject: New Pulsing Light Website From: "Bob Poniatowski" Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 17:42:14 -0700 I just put together a website that describes how to use a touch dimmer to create a pulsing light. Lots of pictures, easy directions. Check out: http://members.nbci.com/bobpony/ohsoscary/ The link is near the bottom of the page. - - - - - Subject: Pictures and Text for PHANTOM FLAMES From: Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:05:56 EDT Here's the site for the pictures and text for Phantom Flames http://hometown.aol.com/celynn/page1.html - - - - - Subject: Pulse Light - Connecting the Capacitor From: "Bob Poniatowski" Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:31:48 -0700 I've updated my pulse light instructions to cover connecting the capacitor permanently to the dimmer. Lots of pictures at: http://members.nbci.com/bobpony/ohsoscary/ Follow the links to Pulse Light, page 2...hope this helps those "intermittent capacitor blues"... By the way, I did connect an oscillating fan up to one of these, and it worked fine. The fan spun up to full speed, then down, then up, then = down. Just as you might expect. Now there is a warning in the dimmer = instructions about not running a motor off of the dimmer... - - - - -