This file is one of the Wolfstone archives of the Halloween mailing lists. You can find out more, and reach the entire collection here: http://www.pobox.com/~wolfstone/_r/HalloweenArchive.html This is a copy of Don Bertino's archive from http://www.calweb.com/~bertino/halloween.html on the subject of "Spider Webs". Minor changes have been made, mostly removal of E-mail headers and signatures, but the germane content is unchanged. - - Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 23:49:34 -0700 From: Scott Axworthy Subject: Spider Webs The last ones were getting a bit long winded, here is an easy one. What Halloween could be without spider webs. I was at my local theatrical supply company one day when a rental web maker came back in. This thing was simple. It consisted of nothing more than a drill with a fanblade in the chuck. There was a small covered cup in the center of the fan blade and the whole fan blade and cup were covered by a fan guard. The key to making this thing work is the goop you put it. Its not rubber cement like many people would think, you need something called cold vulcanizing fluid. This actually looks a lot like rubber cement but it naturally costs more. The cold vulcanizing fluid goes in the cup and there is a thin slot the lets a little bleed out from the centrifugal force when spinning. This web is then blown out until it attaches to something. When you turn the thing on, you see a zillion tiny webs blow out and cover whatever you are aiming at. Of course I bought some cold vulcanizing fluid on the spot and raced home to build my own spider web maker. I just happened to have an fan blade lying around. I then took a plastic film bottle and drilled a hole in the bottom. I took a bolt and put in through the bottom of the film bottle and through the center of the fan blade. I put a nut on it and tightened it up. The rest of the bolt goes into the chuck of the drill. I poured some of the fluid in the canister and popped the cap on. I took a exacto knife and cut a skinny slit about 1/4 of an inch long. I fired it up and it worked like a legion of your favorite 8 legged friends. I tried a few different slit shapes but the one described above works the best. Too big and you get great globs of goo. Too small and nothing comes out. If you make a hole too big, just put some electrical tape over it and make a new one. I have also discovered that the fluid stored in the can only lasts a couple of years. It starts thickening and then your web spinner won't work. I have shot this on indoor wood work and it cleans up pretty easily. Of course I didn't put a fan guard on. Be oh so careful if you don't as these blades would probably take a finger or two right off. If you loose any fingers, put them in the fridge and save them for Halloween night. Nothing like a little realism to get the party going. - - From: Scott Axworthy Subject: Re: Spider Webs Date: Sun, 4 Jun 1995 14:56:04 -0700 (PDT) > > On Sat, 3 Jun 1995, Scott Axworthy wrote: > > Hi Scott! > > > The last ones were getting a bit long winded, here is an easy one. > > Long winded? What us?? ;-) Never! :-) I meant to imply that *I* was long winded in my last messages, but it never hurts to give detail when dealing with Halloween stuff. > > > What > > Halloween could be without spider webs. I was at my local theatrical > > supply company one day when a rental web maker came back in. This > > thing was simple. > [description of making a simple but great spider web making machine] > > Could you lets us know where you bought it, how much comes in the > package and how much it was? Sure! My favorite local supply place is: Pacific Northwest Theatrical Associates (PNTA) 333 Westlake Aveneue North Seattle, WA 98109 (206) 622-7850 (800) 622-7850 I couldn't find it listed in their current dogalog (their into dogs not cats), but I know they carry it. Just ask for "cold vulcanizing fluid." - - Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 04:42:01 -0700 From: milwiron at ix.netcom.com (D.D. ) Subject: Cold vulcanizing fluid sources Don asked where to get cold vulcanizing fluid. Most large discount automotive retailers sell it in the tire repair section. It comes in tubes and 4oz. cans. Try to get the non-flammable kind if you can. It doesn't work quite as good as the older flammable stuff but is a little safer. With either type, use in a ventilated area because the solvents (mainly methylene chloride in cans I've bought) can destroy tissue as well as it dissolves butadiene. - - From: Scott Axworthy Subject: Re: Web maker advice Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 10:44:28 -0700 (PDT) > > > A few years ago when I made a similar web maker as Scott described I > gave no thought as to using a slot in the container. I drilled two I had originally tried multiple openings and the webs seemed to get tangled together and formed a big web of gunk. Now I stick with one slit and I have pretty good results. I cover the slit up with tape when I stop so the fluid doesn't start hardening. > small (.035 I think) holes for the web juice to come out of, one always > clogs and one stays open. Do you get better webs with the slots or > possibly more threads coming out? I've never seen a comercial web I only saw the original web maker for a moment and I didn't get to examine the slots. I haven't tried round holes so I don't know if the slots are really better. The key for me has been to keep a fairly thin slot. > maker, and only had a brief description when mine was made. > Scott, your advice would be very welcome on this. > Denny > Hope this helps. - - From: milwiron at ix.netcom.com (D.D. ) Subject: RE: Web maker advice A few years ago when I made a similar web maker as Scott described I gave no thought as to using a slot in the container. I drilled two small (.035 I think) holes for the web juice to come out of, one always clogs and one stays open. Do you get better webs with the slots or possibly more threads coming out? I've never seen a comercial web maker, and only had a brief description when mine was made. Scott, your advice would be very welcome on this. Denny - -