Obviously, we needed to hook the fogger up to X-10.
WARNING: This project uses line voltage, and is hazardous. If you are not qualified to work on projects like this, please do not attempt it. Get help from somebody who is qualified.
When power is applied to the fogger, it takes a long time to heat up. Only when the machine is hot and ready can you trigger a fog blast. So you don't want to control the primary power to the fogger. You just want to press the "go" button remotely.
We decided to solve this problem by:
Note: You can achieve similar results by modifying the original remote that came with the fogger, instead of replacing it. That modification requires that you find the electrical contacts of the switch that you press to trigger the fogger and simply connect relay contacts across the switch. The good thing about the modification is that much less technical expertise is required, since you don't have to reverse-engineer the remote connection. The bad side is that you have to alter the original remote. If you would like such a modification and don't want to do it yourself, Jim Kadel of Haunt Master Products is willing to do the modification as "spec work" for a reasonable fee.
Here is the Gemmy fogger from 2002 that we intend to use.
The fogger that we bought came with a nice, full-function remote.
We want to replace this by a switch that can be remotely triggered via X-10.
The fogger's remote control attaches via a three-pin IEC power connector
mounted on the back of the fogger.
This type of connector is often used for computer and monitor power supplies.
To make the fogger shoot fog, we must connect together the middle connector and the one on the bottom.
[The fogger must be turned on and warmed up first.]
The relay used in this project is from Hosfelt Electronics. It features a 110 VAC coil and SPDT contacts rated at 16 Amps at 380 VAC. It sells for $.99 (October 2002).
This image shows how our real relay corresponds to the schematic diagram symbol for
a relay.
In the picture on the left:
The connection to the fogger is made with an IEC male connector.
These are difficult to find as component parts, so we will use
an IEC power extension, which has a male connector on one end and a female on the other.
We cut off the female connector and just use the cord and male connector.
The back of the fogger has a female socket, like the connector on the left.
Our controller box will need a male connector like the one on the right.
Our shopping list looked like this (October 2002):
| quantity | part | cost | source |
| 1 | project box | $1.99 | JAL-3 Hosfelt Electronics |
| 1 | IEC power cord extension | $2.75 | 60-351 Hosfelt Electronics |
| 1 | power cord | $.75 | AN-10 Hosfelt Electronics |
| 1 | 110 VAC relay | $.99 | 45-489 Hosfelt Electronics |
| 1 | power indicator | $.75 | IND-100 All Electronics |
The power indicator is optional, but I like putting it in. It lets me know when the relay is active and the fog machine should be belching.
Both locations where power cords exit the box should provide "strain relief",
so that accidently pulling on the cord doesn't harm the internal wiring.
In this example, a copious quantity of
hot-melt glue
inside and outside the box
provides strain relief.
The schematic is simple:
The power cord goes across the relay coil terminals, as does the power indicator
(which consists of a neon lamp and resistor in a single package).
The relay's common terminal and normally open contact go to the fogger.
But what if you have a different model of fogger?
The simplest solution is to leave the normal remote controller in place and place the contacts of a relay in parallel across the "shoot fog" switch. This means that the normal control can be used, and the relay can also be used to "push the button".
We use this technique to implement a controller-driven fog machine.
Thank you for visiting. Your comments are welcome.
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