Inspiration

I attended Wraith's gathering last week [August 2001]. Among the many terrific things there, Pollogeist showed off a latex rubber skull mold and the plaster skull cast from it. He answered my questions and explained the whole process for me. Well, the obsession struck and I had to try it myself. Everything worked exactly as Pollo described.

Many thanks to Wraith and Pollogeist for the inspiration to make it happen.

- Loki

The final product

The skulls were cast from the latex mold sitting on top of the pile.

David prefers to use oil-based stain on his skulls, to give them an "aged bone" look.

This one was painted black, and then wiped with "silver" paint. It looks like something from Terminator.

David calls the tiny ones "Gnome Skulls".

Here are two of David's cast skulls, sitting next to the skull from a cheepie plastic skeleton.

When you have two or three dozen nicely cast skull, it spoils you. You can never again put up with the cheesie stuff.

Making the mold

If the skull has the calvarum cut (the top of the skull cut open), fasten down the lid and use clay to fill in the cut line.

Use more plasticine clay to plug up any holes, like the bottom of the eye sockets. Also reduce the severity of any undercuts in the skull.

If the skull is smooth, you probably don't need any mold release compound. [David didn't use any. If you would feel more comfortable using a mold release, try automotive paste wax.]

Paint the skull with several coats of latex, reinforced with cheesecloth, to make the mold.

Here's the brand of latex that David used. There are plenty of others that will work, too.

[I think David painted one layer, let dry; painted another, let dry; then a third layer and laid cheesecloth on it while wet; finally a last coat of latex, then let dry.]

The web page for the latex David used and recommends for the plaster skull mold is at

Casting

It takes two pours per skull to make it strong enough.

When the skull has hardened, gently remove from the mold. It helps that the mold is rubbery and flexible.

While the plaster is still a bit soft, poke holes through the eye sockets if you want to illuminate the eyes from within.

A stark white plaster skull might be acceptable for a sunbleached look, but we wanted more of an "aged in the ground" sort of look. We did this by wiping on an oil-based stain. [David likes his skulls rather dark. Dennis likes them a little lighter. Do what suits you!]

As it comes out of the mold the plaster is still quite wet, and oil based stain will only go on blotchy, just like it should.

Wipe on the stain, let it sit, and then wipe off.

Plaster of Paris is inexpensive and easy to get. Other types of plaster are available with different physical properties.

In general, plaster isn't waterproof. If you plan to leave these little gems outdoors, you should give them a coating of sealant.